Izwi rokuti "Roots and Tradition" rinopindirana zvakakwana nechadenga ichi: kubva ku rebozo kusvika kune huaraches uye kubva kune filigree kusvika kune charro hat, tiri kutaura pamusoro pezvinhu zvakapfuura eras. Matanho akadai se "Roots of Fashion" akaongorora mabviro, zvinoreva, uye manhamba akapa hupenyu kuzvidimbu izvi, achitobhadhara mutero kuburikidza nezvinhu zvakakurumbira senge. Rotari. Kupemberera micheka yekuMexico kucherechedza basa reumhizha rinoruka kuzivikanwa..
Pre-Hispanic nhaka: zvipfeko, tsika uye chiratidzo
Iyo huepilli yakawira pamabvi uye, ichisonerwa nechemberi, yakagadzira mavhuriro akafanana nemaoko nekuda kwekupeta mumucheka pachawo. Mumamiriro ekunze anotonhora, vheti yakakasharara yakagadzirwa nejira gobvu kana dehwe yaipfekwa pasi pehuepilli, yakagadzirirwa kupa humwe hudziya kumuviri. Kushanda, kuzvininipisa uye pekugara zvakagara pamwe chete mukuwirirana.
MuMexica varume, hwaro hwaive hwacho maxtlatl, jira rakamoneredzwa raivhara nhengo dzesikarudzi uye rairatidza hunhu hwebudiriro kana huchienzaniswa nevanhu vakararama nazvo; yakawedzerwa netilmatli, rectangular cape iyo inogona kusungwa munzvimbo dzakasiyana. Nzira yekupfeka tilma yakaratidza chinzvimbo neropafadzo.
Iyo tilmatli yainyanya kupfekwa sejasi, ine kusiyana kwakasiyana-siyana: yakasungirirwa kumativi pafudzi rimwe uye pasi pehapwa yeimwe, kubvumira maoko akasununguka; dzakasakara shure, sekepisi pasi pemutsipa, chimiro chevakuru nevapristi; uye chimiro chisina kujairika, chichiyambuka pfudzi rimwe, chisingashande nekuti chinoganhura ruoko rumwe. Hurefu hwaitaurawo nezvechimiro: kureba kwechidzitiro chaive chiratidzo cherukudzo kana chinzvimbo..
Muchikamu chemauto, zvidziviriro zvakasiyana uye zvipfeko zvakawedzerwa: goko remachira pamusoro pemaxtlatl kudzivirira nhengo dzesikarudzi, masutu akashongedzwa akazara-emuviri wevanhu vepamusoro, ngowani mumhando yemhuka, uye rudzi rwemudhori furemu paibatwa mapepa, minhenga, kana machira, zvichisimbisa kuvepo. Vest yedonje-padded yaive yakakosha pakucheka kwebaton..
Chitarisiko chomunhu chakatauriranawo. Vakadzi vaipfeka bvudzi refu uye vakaungana pamberi; auiani—vakadzi vounzenza—vakaipfeka zvakasununguka. Yakasvibiswa nedhaka kana kuti nemiti yakaita sexiuhquílitl, iyo yaiita kuti iite violet tones. Pakati pevarume, magadzirirwo ebvudzi aisiyana zvichienderana nezera uye hunhu hwemurwi, kucheka kana kurega kukiya kuine zvazvinoreva..
Nezvekushongedza, vaifarira mhete, kiretani, zvishongo, uye ribhoni dzemavara maererano nemari yavo; panguva dzakakosha, vaizvipenda neocher neyero. Varume vaipfeka zvishoma kunze kwezviratidzo zvehofisi kana kubudirira, uye mapirisiti anokudzwa nevarwi. Muviri wese wakashanda seyanguro yemagariro uye yemhemberero..
Shangu dzaiva shoma uye dzaichengeterwa mhemberero; shangu dzakagadzirwa neshinda shoma dzechirimwa dzakanyanya. Dehwe rakasimba rakanga risingajairiki nekuda kwehunyanzvi hwekutsvaira ganda, hwakachengeterwa vevakuru uye vakashongedzwa neminhenga neshizha regoridhe. Kuenda usina shangu kwakanga kusiri kwechienzi, uye hwashu yaiita basa chairo..
Pane zvipupuriro zvemitauro uye kutonga kwetsika kubva panguva iyoyo: tsika dzemimwe misha dzakashorwa nekuda kwekusapfeka maxtlatl; vakatoseka vaya vakaratidza nhengo dzavo dzesikarudzi vachimhanya. Matauriro epanzvimbo erudo anoramba aripo, senge izwi rekuti "aña," rine chekuita nerudo kune vagari vemudhorobha. Kupfeka kwairarama nemitemo isina kunyorwa uyewo nerusaruro rwakajeka.
Kubva pakusangana neEurope kusvika textile fusion
Mushure mekukunda, mafriars akasimudzira hembe dzekotoni nemabhuruku evarume vachangobhabhatidzwa, pasina kubvisa zvachose maxtlatl uye tilmatli. Mufananidzo waSanta Juan Diego netilma yake inoburitsa kuenderera mberi kwakarukwa pakati penyika mbiri. Sombrero yakava yakakurumbira mukunopera kwezana remakore rechi17. Vakadzi, nekuda kwekufanana kwavo nemafashoni eSpain, vakashandura zvishoma, vachiwedzera machira kuti vafukidze misoro yavo mumitambo..
Mukufanana, the kuiswa kwemvere uye silika yakapfumisa repertoire. Donje rakaramba richitonga munzvimbo dzinodziya, nepo makushe aiwanikwa munyika dzinotonhora nemasarape nemasiketi. Gare gare, artisela yakabatanidzwa muhuipiles uye quexquemetles. Iyo fusion haina kudzima maitiro apfuura; yakaashandura uye akaawedzera..
Iconic nguo: kubva huipil kusvika kune rebozo
Huipil — yekwakabva — ibhurauzi risina maoko kana rokwe rakagadzirwa nemucheka wakasonwa une rectangular, rine mazariro emaoko nemusoro. Inowanzogadzirwa nekotoni kana mvere uye yakashongedzwa neine vibrant motifs. Yayo yakapfava geometry inopesana nekupfuma kwekushongedza kwayo..
Iyo quexquemetl, yepre-Hispanic mavambo, inogadzirwa nekubatanidza rectangles maviri kuita poncho diki ine kuvhura kumusoro. Yakabatanidzwa nemakarenda ekurima nemhemberero, inogadzirwa nemvere dzemakwai kana donje uye yakashongedzwa nemhuka nemaruva. Inguo yeatari inorondedzera kutenderera kwenyika..
Rebozo, chigadzirwa chekuberekesa, ijira refu, rectangular-sejira rakagadzirwa nedonje, makushe, kana sirika. Mashandisiro ayo emazuva ese anotangira pakuvhara mapendekete kusvika pakutakura vacheche, uye tambo dzayo kana ruffles dzinosanganisira hunyanzvi hwekuita. Inoshanda, inoyevedza uye ine rudo, iyo rebozo inoperekedza iwe muhupenyu hwako hwese..
Sechirume chinoonekera zvakanyanya, sarape yakabuda munzvimbo dzakasiyana siyana sejasi reponcho rine mavara mazhinji. Uye ichitaura nezvemifananidzo, ngowani ye<em>charro—ine tambo yakafara yomuromo nechirebvu—inodzivirira vatasvi vemabhiza nema<em>mariachi pazuva, kuwedzera pakuva chiratidzo chenyika. Filigree uye sirivheri mabhatani anopedzisa iyi mamiriro ekutengeserana..
Zvidhori zvedunhu zvakazova zviratidzo
MuVeracruz, jarocho costume inosiyaniswa nekupenya kwayo kwemavara machena kune varume nevakadzi, yakabatanidzwa nemitambo yekuchenesa uye mufaro wemwanakomana (kurira kwemimhanzi); Chinhu chinonyanya kukosha chezvipfeko zvevakadzi ndeye muzinga une maruva mumabhanzi avo: vakadzi vakaroorwa vanopfeka kurudyi uye vakadzi vasina varume vanopfeka kuruboshwe. Ruvara ruchena, lace uye rebozo zvinoruka kuzivikanwa kwemahombekombe.
Jalisco charro-jasi pfupi rine mabhatani esirivha, bhurugwa rakasimba, uye hove huru-inotsanangura mufananidzo wemariachi uye cowboy; mabviro ayo ndeekushandisa uye kupfuya mombe, iko zvino yakasimudzwa kusvika kune zvipfeko zvepamutemo. Mukufanana, iyo "china poblana chipfeko" dzimwe nguva inodudzwa semukadzi wechikadzi, kunyangwe nzvimbo yayo yekufananidzira ndeyePuebla; muJalisco, ngano yevakadzi yakapfeka mavara akajeka ane ruffles nemarabhoni. Kubva kubasa rekumaruwa kusvika kune zvipfeko zvemhemberero, charrería itsika inorarama.
Kubva kuOaxaca, chipfeko cheTehuana—huipil yakarukwa uye petticoat yakarukwa, ichiperekedzwa nezvishongo zvefirigree—, zvinofarirwa ne Frida Kahloinopemberera simba revakadzi veIsthmus yeTehuantepec; dunhu rega reOaxacan rinopa manuances ayo: Mixtec, Sierra Norte, uye Valles Centrales. Izwi rimwe chete, Tehuana, rinopfupisa kudada uye kutsunga..
Iyo china poblana, ine bhurauzi rayo jena uye rakazara, siketi ine mavara, ine nhoroondo inonakidza: iye anobatanidzwa nemufananidzo waMirra, akapinzwa muuranda muIndia, akaunzwa kuNew Spain, uye akabhabhatidzwa Catarina de San Juan. Akachengetedza chimiro chake chakafemerwa nesari, uye nekufamba kwenguva, mufananidzo uyu wakazivisa mufananidzo wePuebla. Nhoroondo, ngano uye tsika yakasanganiswa inopindirana mune iyi silhouette.
Techniques, fibers uye dhayi: moyo wehunyanzvi
Kare maHispanic asati avapo, mhizha dzaishanda ne ixtle ( maguey ), shinda dzemuchindwe dzomusango ( izcotl ), nedonje—zvose chena neruvara rwebrown rainzi coyuche. Nenguva yekoloni, makushe nemakonye akasvika, zvichiita kuti pave neumbozha damasks, satin, mavelvet, uye rebozos. Nhasi, nzanga dzakawanda dzinoshongedza dzinoshandisa sirika yakagadzirwa. Imwe neimwe fiber inopa drape, kudziya, kupenya, uye nyaya yekugovana..
Kurukwa kuchiri kufarirwa: tsvimbo yakareba 30 cm uye ivhu, danda, kana bhonzo rinoruka rinoshandiswa kumonyorora nekumonyorora shinda; kutanga chikamu chekutanga kunoda hunyanzvi hukuru. Maspinner anochinjanisa basa iri nemabasa avo ezuva nezuva, kunyange kuruka chirukwa nerubatsiro rwetsoka dzavo. Kutenderera ndiko rhythm, moyo murefu uye ndangariro mukufamba.
Chirukwa chekumashure, chishandiso chakakosha, chinounganidzwa kubva pamatanda asina kusimba; muruki anorukana pakati pedanda nechiuno chemuruki, uyo anoruka akagara pasi uye anodzora kudhonzwa nemuviri wake. Iyo hupamhi inoganhurwa nekusvika kweruoko, saka iyo yakajairwa hupamhi hwekutenderedza 60 cm. Iyo tekinoroji inodzikamisa hupamhi, asi kwete fungidziro yemotifs.
Panyaya yeruvara uye chiratidzo, yero, yebhuruu, tsvuku, yepepuru, orenji, uye dema inomira. Kunyangwe madhayi eaniline achishandiswa nhasi kuita basa, dhayi dzechinyakare senge indigo, hozhwa yepepuru, cochineal, uye mhodzi dzakaita seachiote dzinoramba dziripo. Ruvara haruna kungoshongedza chete: runorondedzera mitsara, nyika uye tsika.
Overview nenyika: masutu uye peculiarities
Aguascalientes
Vakadzi vanopfeka masiketi marefu uye mabhurauzi akamendwa nemaoko—dzimwe nguva akabatanidzwa—uye rebozo seshamwari yavo isingaparadzanisiki; midzi yavo yevarimi iripo chaizvo. Inofungidzirwa mutengo unosiyana pakati pe800 ne1.500 MXN.
Baja California
Nekuda kwekusikwa kwayo ichangoburwa senyika uye hunhu hwayo hwemudhorobha-netsika dzakawanda, chipfeko chimwe chete chechinyakare hachina kugadzwa; zvipfeko zvine pesvedzero yeMexico zvinogona kuwanikwa mumabhizinesi emuno. Border modernity inoisa aesthetic toni.
Baja California Sur
Rokwe dzvuku rine ruva re pitahaya - iyo inomiririra cactus yepeninsula - inomira pachena, inozivikanwa chaizvo seye pitahaya flower suit. Botany uye kudada kwedunhu mumufananidzo mumwe.
Campeche
Kuvakadzi, huipil uye siketi refu ine embroidery; zvevarume, hembe dzedonje nemabhurugwa machena. Nhaka yeMayan inosanganiswa nenhaka dzekoloni. Mitengo inowanzobva pa1.500 kusvika pa3.000 MXN zvichikwira..
Chiapas
Ruvara, kurerukirwa, uye maumbirwo anotonga: huipiles, masiketi ane pleated, uye shawls dzevakadzi; mantas kuvarume. Kubva kuParachico yeChiapa de Corzo kusvika kuTzotzil zvipfeko nemaruva akamendwa neshiri, imuseum mhenyu. Maseti anogona kubva pa2.000 kusvika pa5.000 MXN kana kupfuura.
Chihuahua
Nyika yemombe inosiya chiratidzo chayo: bhutsu neheti zvevarume; kuvakadzi, masiketi akaputika uye mabhurauzi anoenderana, muchero wenhoroondo yekupfuya mombe yenyika. Nguo inoshanda yemunda inova chiratidzo.
Coahuila
Mabhurauzi ane mavara, masiketi emaruva marefu, uye shawel dzevakadzi; hembe nebhurugwa zvechivanhu zvevarume. Mitengo yakajairika inosvika chiuru nemazana mashanu kusvika kuzviuru zvitatu zveMXN.
Colima
Vanowanzo pfeka mabhurauzi ane maoko marefu uye masiketi akarukwa; vanopfeka hembe chena nemabhurukwa edonje. Iyo mestizo uye musanganiswa wedunhu unotungamira mukuchekwa uye zvishongo.
Durango
Pakati pevaTepehuane, marokwe echikadzi ane mavara akarukwa anooneka, nepo varume vachipfeka mantas akapfava. Iyo yakavhenganiswa kumashure inooneka mumaitiro uye zvishongedzo.
State of Mexico
Mukadzi anopfeka siketi nhema uye bhandi rechincuete; varume vakapfeka hembe chena yedonje nematirauzi. Mutengo unowanzo pakati pe1.000 ne2.500 MXN.
Muzvishandiso zvedzidzo, hazvishamisi kuwana mareferensi ezvidzidzo kana kukwezva kune zvipfeko izvi, zvichiratidza mashandisiro azvo edzidzo. Zvipfeko zvinopindawo mukirasi sechivanhu.
Guanajuato
Zvipfeko zvechikadzi zvine mavara akajeka ane zvinyorwa zvakashongedzwa nemaoko uye masiketi akazara; vakadzi vakapfeka hembe chena nebhurugwa dema. Kakawanda mitengo: 1.500 kusvika 3.000 MXN kana kupfuura.
Guerrero
Munharaunda dzeTlapanec, machira (cueitl) ane zviratidzo zvekubereka, maruva uye zvinhu zvengano zvinogara pamwe nemamwe akasiyana ematunhu. Zvipfeko zvemhemberero zvinoramba zvichirova mumitambo nemitambo.
Hidalgo
Mabhurauzi ane maoko marefu, masiketi ane mipendero, uye machira evakadzi; magumbeze machena evarume. Micheka uye embroidery zvinotsigira Otomi-Tepehua ndangariro.
Jalisco
Vakadzi vanopfeka marokwe echinyakare ane lace nemarabhoni; varume vanopfeka macharro suits nemaheti nebhutsu. Mitengo inotangira pa2.000 kusvika ku10.000 MXN kana kudarika zvichienderana nemhando..
Michoacán
Mabhurauzi akamendwa, masiketi ane mavara mazhinji, nemashawa; munharaunda yese yePurépecha, ruvara uye dhizaini zvinoburitsa zvirevo zvemweya kana zvemhuri. Iwe uchawana seti kubva ku1.500 kusvika ku3.000 MXN.
Morelos
Mabhurauzi akamendwa nenguo dzevakadzi; magumbeze machena evarume. Iyo mestizo tsika yeMorelos inogara mukucheka uye machira.
Nayarit
Zvipfeko zveWixárika zvinoratidzirwa nehembe nemabhuruku akashongedzwa nezviratidzo zvitsvene (nondo, peyote, chibage), pamwe chete nemabhegi akarukwa nemaoko. Huwandu uye ruvara rwemabhegi zvinoratidza chinzvimbo chenharaunda..
Nuevo León
Jaketi rematehwe, masiketi akazara uye bhutsu, aripo zvakanyanya mumadhanzi emimhanzi yevanhu. Kumaodzanyemba kunaka kunoonekwa kubva kumaira kure.
Oaxaca
Huipiles, masiketi akapfava, uye akasiyana siyana nedunhu: Tehuanas kubva kuIsthmus, Mixtec madhizaini, kana ayo anobva kuSierra. Iyo Guelaguetza inoita kuti zvakasiyana-siyana izvi zvionekwe pachikuva.
Puebla
Mabhurauzi akamendwa (huipiles) uye masiketi marefu ane lace yevakadzi; magumbeze machena evarume. Kazhinji mutengo: 1.500 kusvika 3.000 MXN uye kumusoro.
Querétaro
Sketi yakashongedzwa uye shati yekotoni ine cambaya apron uye tambo shangu; inowanzozivikanwa sechipfeko cheOtomi. Machira echinyakare uye shangu zvinopedzisa ensemble..
Quintana Roo
Chipfeko chedunhu kubva kuChiclera, chine akawanda motifs ejasi rehurumende rezvombo-snail, nyeredzi-yakapendwa kana yakashongedzwa. Iyo Caribbean neMayan pesvedzero inosiya chiratidzo chayo.
San Luis Potosi
MuHuasteca, mabhurauzi akamendwa, masiketi marefu, uye dhayemlaab, rudzi rweponcho, zvinopfekwa; varume vanopfeka magumbeze machena. Mitengo haiwanzo kudonha pasi pe1.500 MXN.
Sinaloa
Pakati peakati wandei, iyo amapa flower costume inomira pachena, yakafuridzirwa neruva rakawanda kubva mudunhu. Botany yemuno yakasimudzwa kuita textile emblem.
Sonora
Pamusoro peiyo yakasimba cowboy aesthetic, Yaqui tsika inopa yakapfava, ine mavara zvipfeko nehunhu hwayo. Muganho uye veko vanogarisana muSonoran wadhiropu..
Tabasco
Mabhurauzi akamendwa uye masiketi ane mavara evakadzi; hembe chena nemabhurukwa edonje zvevarume. Mhedzisiro yekupisa yakashongedzwawo pamucheka. Tsika yeZoque inosiya mavara anooneka mune mamwe matunhu motifs.
Tamaulipas
Chipfeko chakasiyana ndicho chinonzi cuera: shati refu, yakasununguka inoshanda sechipfeko chechiitiko chezviitiko. Leather uye sober cut, yekuchamhembe kunaka.
Tlaxcala
Mabhurauzi akamendwa uye masiketi ane lace evakadzi; magumbeze machena evarume. Delicate details for a compact tsika.
Veracruz
Masiketi akazara, mabhurauzi emucheka, uye shawls; varume vanopfeka maguayabera machena nemabhurugwa ane ruvara rwakareruka. Jarocho mimhanzi yakagadzirwa muwadhiropu.
Yucatán
Sutu yemestizo — doublet, huipil, uye fustian — inoratidzira maruva akachinjika; zvevarume, guayabera, bhurugwa rakasviba, neheti. Mitengo: Suits kubva ku2.000 MXN; guayaberas pakati pe500 ne1.500 MXN.
Zacatecas
Mabhurauzi akamendwa uye masiketi ane mavara evakadzi; hembe chena nemabhuruku edonje, dzimwe nguva nevest neheti yevarume. Nzvimbo yemugodhi inoshongedza gala yedunhu. Onawo iyo Zacatecas zvipfeko kuti uwane ruzivo rwemunharaunda.
Mapato, catwalks uye kuparidzira
Zvipfeko zvemudunhu hazvisi kungogara mumakesi ekuratidzira kana mamuseum: anoonekwa muzvikoro panguva yemhemberero dzevagari, pamitambo yemuno, uye pazviitiko zvikuru zvevashanyi seGuelaguetza. Vakawanawo kuvepo mumakwikwi erunako, vachisimbisa kuoneka kwavo munhau. Kuvapfekedza hakusi kupfeka: kukudza nharaunda chaiyo..
Nhaurirano pakati pechinyakare uye indasitiri yemafashoni yakakura. Vagadziri vakaita saCarla Fernández, Lydia Lavín, naArmando Mafud vanoshanda nenharaunda dzehunyanzvi kutsanangura patsva matekiniki uye silhouettes vachichengeta ruremekedzo rwemaitiro emachira. Kudyidzana zvine mutoro kunogona kukudza nekuchengetedza nhaka.
Zviratidziro zvakadai se "Art of Clothing and Fashion in Mexico, 1940-2015," yakaunzwa nemasangano etsika (Fomento Cultural Banamex, Secretaría de Cultura/INAH, El Palacio de Hierro, uye Vogue México), vakaunza fashoni uye zvipfeko zvechivanhu chiso nechiso kuti vaongorore kwavakabva uye mataurirwo azvino. Izvozvo "zviso zvakatarisana" zvinoratidza tsika kuburikidza nemapfekero ayo.
Muchirongwa chekunyora, "Roots of Fashion" inomutsiridza nyaya dzembatya nezvimwe zvinhu - rebozos, huaraches, filigree, uye charro hats - zvichisimbisa kukosha kwavo uye kupa rukudzo kuMexico nemusoro senge "The Lottery." Iyo encyclopedia mhenyu yeMexican textiles uye mhizha..
Chekupedzisira, kuparidzira kune zvakare chikamu chedzidzo uye chekudzidzisa: kubva kune zviwanikwa zvekudzidza nhoroondo netsika nevarairidzi vakazvimiririra kusvika kune izvo zvinosanganisa zvipfeko muzvirongwa zvechikoro. Ruzivo rwemachira runofambiswa zvese mumusangano uye mukirasi.
Kuongorora zvipfeko zvechinyakare zvekuMexico zvakadzika kuwana nzwisiso mumazana emakore ekusanganiswa, hunyanzvi hwekuita, uye zvinogara zvichichinja rondedzero dzedunhu. Kubva pahuipil kusvika kune charro, kubva pamucheka weshure kusvika kune yakarukwa yesirika, kubva kuTehuana kusvika kuJarocho, zvese zvinodhirowa mepu yetsika yakagadzirwa nefibers, dhayi uye yakagovaniswa ndangariro inoramba ichikurudzira avo vanoitakura, kuigadzira uye kuidzidza.
