Zvipfeko zvechinyakare zveJalisco chikamu chakakosha cheiyo zvipfeko zveMexico uye, nekurova kwe embroidery uye mariachi mimhanzi, inogara newe nekusingaperi. Charros, skirmishes uye masiketi anotenderera Kune mutinhimira wenziyo dzacho, vanotaura nyaya yagara mazana emakore, yakarukwa pakati pevanhu veko, pesvedzero yeSpain, uye rudado rweGuadalajara.
Mune iyi mitsetse iwe unowana gwara rakazara rinofukidza kwakabva, kushanduka, hembe dzinokosha, uye mashandisirwo emhemberero echipfeko ichi. Isu tinosanganisa zvese zvakakosha: nhoroondo, zvidimbu zvevakadzi nevarume, mitemo yecharro sutu, mimhanzi nemhemberero., kuwedzera kune unyanzvi hwokugadzira hunoita kuti zviitike. Uye hongu, kune zvakare mamwe etsika nuances anofanirwa kuchengetwa mupfungwa.
Nhoroondo uye midzi yeJalisco zvipfeko
Kare vanhu veSpain vasati vasvika, vanhu vepamberi peColumbian vaigara munzvimbo iyi - senge. Tecuexes uye Caxcanes—vakanga vatopfeka nguwo dzaitaura nezvezvakavapoteredza uye tsika dzavo. Vaishandisa micheka ine faibha dzemuno uye magadzirirwo akabatana nezvisikwa, aine zvese zvinoshanda uye zvemhemberero.
Kukundwa kwezana remakore rechi16 kwakaratidza kuchinja kukuru. Mafashoni eEurope uye matekiniki akapinda munhaurirano nehunyanzvi hwechivanhu, zvichiita kuti pave nechitarisiko chakasiyana-siyana chinoenderana nemamiriro ekunze, hupenyu hwezuva nezuva, uye mhemberero dzenzvimbo yacho. Micheka mitsva, mapatani akasiyana, uye mamwe akaomarara embroidery zvishoma nezvishoma zvakatora chimiro, zvichitsanangura inozivikanwa chitambi cheJalisco.
Musanganiswa uyu ndiwo unotsanangura mweya wesutu: ruvara, kunaka uye chiratidzo Vanogarisana mukuenzanisa. Haisi aesthetics chete; ndiko kuzivikanwa. Musono wega wega, ribhoni rega rega, nekushongedza kwese kunotiudza kwatakabva uye nei tichiramba tichizvipemberera nhasi.
Pane inoshuvira nhoroondo yenyaya inobatsira kuigadzira: zita renyika rinobva paizwi reNahuatl Xalisco ("pajecha"), uye yakabatana nekugara kwekare uko tsika inoisa kutenderera 618 AD neToltec pesvedzero. Nharaunda yakava, nekufamba kwenguva, nzvimbo yekuzvarwa charros, jaripeos, palenques, mariachi uye tequila, zvidhori zviriko nhasi. Mexican zviratidzo uye rudzi rwepasi rose kubva kuMexico.
Enzanisa chipfeko chako pano
Mumamiriro ezvinhu anhasi, chipfeko chechinyakare chinogara nekuda kwenharaunda dzinochigadzira, dzinopfeka, uye dzinodzidzisa kuzvizvarwa zvitsva. Nhaka haichengetwi mukuratidzira; kunotambwa, kuimbwa, uye kupfekedzwa. mumakwere, zvikoro nematanho mudunhu rese.
Chipfeko chevakadzi muJalisco uye skirmish
Chipfeko chevakadzi chakajairika kubva kuJalisco chine siketi yakafara poplin (yakasimba, yakareruka, uye inodhirowa zvakanaka), ruvara rwayo rwunosiyana zvichienderana neboka kana ballet. Kuzara kwejasi hakuna kupenga: kana ichitenderera kune nziyo dzeJalisco, inoita masaisai anoshamisa zvinoperekedza mimhanzi.
Kumusoro kune bhibhi ne inverted triangle holland, yakashongedzwa nemarabhoni ane mavara. Pazasi penguvo pane yechipiri frill, inenge 35 masendimita yakafara, yakapfekedzwa nemitsara yemaradhi anoenderana uye yakapedzwa nayo roll (lace). Zvichienderana neboka, inogona kunge iri chidimbu chimwe chete kana inosanganisira blouse uye skirt.
Iyo yebvudzi inoverengera zvakare: bvudzi rakapfekwa yakarukwa uye yakashongedzwa nemarabhoni inzwi rakafanana nerokupfeka. Mhete hombe uye mitsipa izvo zvinowedzera kupenya pachikuva. Mukugadzira, mimvuri ine mavara uye miromo mitsvuku inobatsira kutsanangura maitiro pasi pechiedza.
Mitemo yetsika patsoka: shangu nhema yeganda nechitsitsinho, yakanakira tap kutamba pasina kurasikirwa nekugadzikana. Iyi bhutsu inomirisana nehurly-burly yekudzokorora uye brio yechikuva.
Kune vanowedzera shawl, Iyo yakareba uye yakasiyana-siyana canvas inovhara mapepa uye inowedzera chimiroKunyangwe isiri iyo nguva dzose yakakosha, kana ichionekwa inowedzera kunaka uye inogutsurira kune refu Mexican machira tsika.
Kana tikataura nezvevakadzi uye Jalisco, yave nguva yekutaura iyo skirmish, chirango chevakadzi charrerÃa. Chipfeko chake chinoyevedza chinosanganisa masiketi akareba, akazara nemabhurauzi emhando yepamusoro nengowani yakashongedzwa maruva uye ribhoni. Pano kuenzanisa, kunyatsojeka uye aesthetics zvinouya pamwe chete: makumbo ega ega ari pabhiza anoratidza kuti hukadzi uye hunyanzvi hwemabhiza. endai makabatana.
Guadalajara: masitaera uye zvinofurira
Muguta guru, Guadalajara, rudo rwechipfeko charro runowanikwa mumhemberero uye kuratidzwa nezvimwe zvinofurira zvakakurumbira. Iyo inonzi "china poblana costume" - yerunako rwakakura uye mukurumbira wenyika - inogona kuoneka mumitambo yetsika nemitambo, zvichiratidza mharadzano dzemhemberero dzinoratidzira guta, mune tsika nemazuva ano. vanokwazisana.
Iyo charro sutu: mitemo, zvidimbu uye etiquette
Iyo charro sutu haisi chipfeko; iyunifomu yetsika ine mitemo yakajeka. Iyo Mexican Federation yeCharrerÃa Inogadza mutemo unotsanangura zvidimbu zvenguvo, zvigadziro zvesadhi uye etiquette yebasa, hafu-gala, gala, guru gala uye etiquette.
Pakati pemitemo yakawanda pane zvakawanda zvinorambidzwa: sutu haigoni kuchinjwa, usaipfeke nepakati, kana kuisanganisa nembatya dzenguva dzose dzakadai tennis shangu kana caps. Mavara anopenya zvakanyanya anoganhurirwawo mune mamwe mapoka, kuchengetedza yakapusa palette inoremekedza tsika.
Chipfeko chechirume - hwaro hwekupfeka mariachi uye charro - ine nhoroondo yayo mune zvipfeko zvevashandi vepurazi uye hacienda muzana ramakore rechi 17 nerechi18. Chinacos) Nekufamba kwenguva, yakashanduka ikava yakanaka, yakadzama, uye yakaoma kunzwisisa yatinoziva nhasi.
- Charro hat
Ndiyo korona yesethi: yakafara-brimmed, uye kusvika matombo mana, yakagadzirwa nemvere, makushe kana muchindwe. Yakashongedzwa ne calabrote shawl, chirukwa uye mabheji, akabatanidzwa pamwe chete nedzimwe sutu.
La bhachi, yakajeka, inogona kugadzirwa nemucheka, serge, suede kana cashmere; kazhinji ine embroidery uye imwe kusvika kune matatu brooches pachipfuva chakaitwa nerunyanga, pfupa, suede kana sirivheri. vest Izvo zvinosarudzwa, asi kana zvakasakara, jekete rinogara richienda kumusoro, richiremekedza mutsara wekare.
- Hembe refu-refu
Matoni machena kana akakomba, ane macuffs akashanda zvakanaka uye kora yehurumende kana yemauto. Inowedzera kuzvidzora uye kuenzanisa kukosha kwejasi uye tie.
- Mabhurugwa nemachap
Mabhurugwa acho akagadzirwa charro cut, yakajeka, ine trim mumavara anobvumirwa uye isina homwe yekumashure. Mumakwikwi, vanowedzerwa zvits, iyo inogona kuve yakajeka kana yakashongedzwa, inopa kudzivirira uye kurongedza.
- Bow tie uye cummerbund
Tai yakasungwa butterfly style uye bhanhire (rakagadzirwa nemucheka, suede, kana dehwe) rinouya nematoni akangwara. Aya matauriro maviri anochengetedza kuenzana kwekuona kwe ensemble.
- Bhutsu, bhandi uye spurs
Bhutsu dzine spur chitsitsinho uye chigunwe chakatenderera. Ivo vanogamuchirwa mubrown, waini, bay, grey uye zvakasiyana-siyana. Bhandi rinogona kugadzirwa nematehwe, donje, nguruve kana ixtle, ine charro style buckle. Spurs, zvese spike uye vhiri, zvinokurudzirwa kuti iiswe pairi bhutsu chitsitsinho uye kwete pachitsitsinho.
Mukuwirirana pane charro suit kuvakadzi, nemapoka chaiwo (faena, media gala, gala, grand gala uye etiquette). Zvinosanganisira siketi, mhete uye shawl, uye inotungamirirwa nemitemo yayo yemavara, embroidery uye maitiro, kuchengetedza aesthetic coherence nevarume ensemble.
Kupfuura mitemo yemazuva ano, mufananidzo wecharro unozivikanwa neiri pfupi, bhachi rakaiswa, ngowani hombe uye tirauzi rinenge riripo mabhatani uye embroidery pamwe chete seams uye maoko. Kana ari ma toni, tsika inoraira palette yakapfava, ine brown kana rima mavara anotora pakati.
Pakuita mariachi, chipfeko ichi chinova chiratidzo chepasirese: ngowani yakafara, bhachi rakashongedzwa, bhurugwa rakabatikana nebhutsuMhedzisiro yacho inokatyamadza sezvo isina kunaka, chiratidzo chisinga fungidzike cheJalisco mukati nekunze kweMexico.
Mhemberero, mimhanzi uye kuchengetedza tsika
Chipfeko chechinyakare zvechokwadi chinouya kuhupenyu mumugwagwa uye pachikuva. Pamitambo yakaita seyo Independence yeMexico kana the Revolution DayZvipfeko zvinoratidzwa mumapuranga, kutamba, uye mitambo. Zvinopfekwawo pamitambo yechivanhu uye mharidzo dzechikoro, uko tsika inodzidzwa uye inogoverwa.
Zuva rinokosha pakarenda ndiro Pilgrimage yeMhandara yeZapopanZviuru zvavanhu zvinoperekedza chifananidzo chacho mumigwagwa, uye vakawanda vanosarudza kupfeka zvipfeko zvetsika nokuda kwomudungwe wacho. Icho chiratidzo chekuzvipira uye kuva wemunharaunda.
Iyo soundtrack, hongu, inopiwa ne mariachiInozivikanwa neUNESCO seIntangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, iyo classical repertoire inosanganisira zvidimbu zvakaita se. The TapatÃo manyuchi, Inzwi remukadzi mutema y Nyoka, iyo inoronga kutamba uye inosimbisa kuzununguka kwemapendero uye mweya wecharro.
Muchikwata chetsika dzemariachi tinowana zviridzwa zvakaita se gitare, gitarrón, trumpet, rudimbwa, vihuela uye violinIko kusanganiswa kwetambo nendarira kunobvumira rhythmic uye melodic kupindirana kunofadza vateereri sezvinongoita vateereri.
Kuseri kwechipfeko chese kune maoko enyanzvi. Kugadzirwa kwenguo kunosanganisira ruzivo rwakapfuura. kubva kuzvizvarwa nezvizvarwa: kugadzira mapatani, kucheka, embroidery matekiniki, uye kusarudzwa kwezvinhu. Micheka inofanira kuva yemhando yepamusoro uye yakasimba—poplin, twill, suede, cashmere, broadcloth—nokuti kushandiswa kwedariro kunoda kusimba.
Embroidery shinda kazhinji dzakatetepa uye mavara akajeka, inokwanisa kudhirowa madhiri, maruva, uye mifananidzo isingangonakidzi chete asiwo inotaura nyaya dzomunzvimbomo. Wekishopu yega yega inosiya mucherechedzo wayo, nekudaro kuvepo kwezvitaera zvinozivikanwa neboka kana dunhu.
Kuenderera mberi uku kunotariswa mukati maworkshops nezvikoro Makirasi ehunyanzvi, kwavanodzidzira kuruka uye kuunganidza zvimedu zvezvipfeko. Iko kudzidziswa uye hwaro hwetsika: inovimbisa kuti vechidiki vanzwisise uye vanokoshesa zvavanopfeka pachikuva.
Kukwidziridzwa hakusi kupfupi: kune mashoo, maparade uye zviitiko zvinounza zvipfeko izvi kuvanhu vose. Kana vashanyi nevagari venzvimbo vanomira kuti vatarise, kuombera, uye kutora mifananidzo, kutenderera kwacho kwapera: kudada kwenzvimbo uye rutsigiro rwehupfumi kune mhizha.
Dzimba dzakawanda nemapoka anokukoka iwe kuti "edza" tsika kuburikidza netsika yekuunganidza uye makomisheni. Kusarudza chipfeko chakanaka chechinyakare -kana chidimbu chakafanana nesashi kana shawl - inzira yakananga yekutsigira mhizha uye kuramba uchiitenderera pasirese.
Pakupedzisira, ichi chese chemicheka uye kurukwa chinoshanda sendangariro inofamba. Kuzivikanwa kunosoneswa, kutamba nekuimbwa, uye Jalisco yakakwanisa kushandura wadhiropu yayo kuita tsamba yepasirese yesumo pasina kurasikirwa nekuona nezve izvo zvinoita kuti ive yechokwadi.
Ani nani anosvika kune zvipfeko zveJalisco anowana tsika inorarama mairi nhoroondo, unyanzvi uye mhemberero Vanopindirana: kubva ku pre-Hispanic heritage kusvika kuEuropean embroidery, kubva ku rebozo kusvika kune charro bun, kubva kumaplaza ane mariachi mabhendi kuenda kumashopu uko zvese zvinotanga. Kupfekedza Jalisco nhasi kunoreva kutarisa zvakananga pamidzi yaro uye, nekutenderera kwejasi kana kubata kwe spurs, kupemberera hupenyu hwavo hunoenderera mberi.
