Kimono chipfeko chinobatanidza unyanzvi, unyanzvi, uye zviratidzo. Kunyangwe ikozvino yakachengeterwa zviitiko zvakakosha, inoramba iripo iyo quintessential icon yezvipfeko zveJapanChimiro chayo chinoratidzika kunge chakapfava chinovanza nyika yemateru, machira, mapfundo, uye maitiro ekunakisa anobatana nemazana emakore enhoroondo.
Kana iwe uchikwezvwa netsika dzechiJapani, pano iwe unowana gwara rakazara rakazara: kubva mukushanduka kwayo uye mhando kuenda inogadzirwa sei, painoshandiswa uye ndezvipi zvishongedzo zvinoiperekedzaIwe uchaonawo kuti sei motifs, mavara, uye mwaka zvakakosha zvakanyanya, uye sei geishas and maikos kuisimudzira kune unyanzvi hwemazuva ose.
Chii chinonzi kimono uye ndeipi basa rayo nhasi?
Shoko rokuti kimono rinogona kushandurwa kuti "zvinhu zvinopfekwa." Mukuita, nhasi inotsanangura nguo yechivanhu mutsara wakatwasuka, wakayambukira kumberi uye wakasungwa neobiKunyange zvazvo zvipfeko zvezuva nezuva zveJapan zviri zvikurukuru zvokuMadokero, kimono ichiri kupfekwa pamichato, pamariro, pakupedza kufunda, mitambo yetii, Gore Idzva, uye mitambo; inoponawo mumabasa akaita se geishas, classical theatre vatambi kana hupirisita.
Ichi chidimbu chinogadzirwa kubva kumupumburu mumwe chete wejira uye chinosungirirwa kumuviri nemapleat, pasina chero saizi yakajairwa. Zviri pachena kuti zviri nyore zvinovanza mitemo yehutsika, underlayers, accessories uye mapfundo iyo inoumba yechinyakare chipfeko cheJapan chinoyevedza, kitsuke. Uye chenjerera: rutivi rworuboshwe runogara rwakayambuka kurudyi; reverse rakachengeterwa mushakabvu.
Kubva pamavambo kusvika pakubwinya: nhoroondo yezvikamu uye mavara
Pamberi pekimono: pesvedzero uye mafomu ekutanga
Kubva kare, mbatya dzaigadzirwa neshinda dzemiti dzaishandiswa kurwisa kutonhora. Nesimba reChinese panguva yeYamato, Asuka, uye Nara nguva, Japan yakagamuchira sericulture uye hanfu silhouettesMunzvimbo inoberekerwa iyi, kosode, chipfeko chine maoko matete chaibva pakupfekwa mukati kusvika pakupfekwa kunze nekufamba kwenguva, uye osode, ine maoko makuru, yakaonekwa.
Heian: Kusona uye kurongeka
MuHeian, tsika yekucheka jira kuita rectangular panels yakasonwa pasina kutevedzera chimiro chemuviri yakave yakajairika. Iyi nzira, ichiri kushandiswa nanhasi, yakabvumira hukuru hwakajairwa uye akaturikidzana musanganiswa. Madzimai emudare akakurumbira jūni-hitoe, seti inosvika gumi nembiri, uko kutsinhirana kwechromatic nemwaka kwakanga kuri kiyi yokunatsa.
Hondo, kushanda uye ruvara
Pakati peKamakura naMuromachi maoko akapfupikiswa kuti aite, kosode yakakunda mugwagwa uye mapalettes akava mupenyuMunhandare yehondo, mapoka airatidza kuvimbika ane mavara uye motif; panguva imwecheteyo, obi yakawedzera kureba uye yakadonhedzwa kumashure kuti ifambise kufamba.
Edo: kimono yakabatanidzwa uye obi inotonga
Munguva yeEdo, kimono yakava nguo yenyika. mazinga emaitiro, mhuri crests (kamon) uye marudzi emachiraObi yakawedzera uye ikava nzvimbo yepakati; akawanda ezvisungo kana musubi akatanga, uye indasitiri yemachira yeumbozha yakatanga muNishijin (Kyoto). Kunyange zvazvo paiva nemitemo yaidiwa nevanhuwo zvavo, yakabudirira. dzakaomarara grey uye brown uye understated anodhinda iyo yakavanza umbozha mumashoko acho.
Modernization: kubva pakusimuka kweWest kusvika pakudzoka kwayo
Nekudzorerwa kweMeiji, Hurumende yakasundira kutorwa kwe Zvipfeko zvekuMadokero muhutungamiri, mauto uye zvikoroKimono yakasiiwa kuti ishandiswe uye kupemberera. Muhafu yekutanga yenguva yeShowa, mitero yesilika uye pre-war mamiriro ekunze akarerutsa magadzirirwo; Hondo yapera, kugadzirwa kwakakura kwakadzoka, uye gare gare, simbi dzekugadzira dzakatengeka dzakasvika. Nhasi, kimono inogara pamwe chete nenguvo dzekuMadokero, inobhadharwa kune zviitiko, uye chiitiko chechidiki chinochidudzirazve nemabhegi, sneakers kana masanganiswa emudhorobha asina macomplexes.
Maitirwo azvinoitwa: kubva pamupumburu wejira kune basa rinogara kwezvizvarwa
Kugadzirwa kunotanga ne tani, mupumburu ungangoita 12-13 metres kureba ne 36-40 cm yakafara, iyo inochekwa mukati. mapanera masere rectangular Okumi kwemuviri, maoko, mutsipa, uye kumberi. Saizi inotarwa ne seams uye kureba kwepaneru, uye iyo yakawandisa inogadziriswa yekupfeka nemapleat. Iwo anoshandiswa mumitambo kimonos ye geisha kana maiko. zviviri kana zvitatu zvakadaro nemipendero yakapetwa.
Sechinyakare, silika ndiye mambokadzi, kunyangwe kune akasiyana mukotoni (yukata) uye, nhasi, polyester kana rayon kuderedza mutengo. Iyo modular system inobvumira sunungura uye wotsiva nhengo dzakasakara, kurebesa upenyu hwenguo uye kuita kuti nhaka yayo iende kuchizvarwa nechizvarwa.
Zviyero zvakajairika uye anatomy yenguo
Zviyero zvazvino zvinosanganisira kureba kuri pedyo ne158 cm uye upamhi hwemafudzi nemaoko hunosvika masendimita makumi matatu, uye kudonha kwemaoko kunosiyana zvichienderana nerudzi rwekimono. Zvimiro zvemberi sodeguchi (sleeve mouth), eri (neck), okumi (front stripe) and maemigoro (main panel); seri, yuki (pfudzi + sleeve), miyatsukuchi (kuvhurwa kwehapwa) kana fuki (kudzivirira kwehem), pakati pemamwe mazwi auchaona achitaurwa nenyanzvi uye zvitoro zvine hunyanzvi.
Mhando dze kimono: kubva kune inoshamisira kusvika kune yemazuva ese
Tomesode: Tsika dzevakadzi vakaroorwa
Ndiyo nguo yakanyanyisa yevakadzi vakaroorwa. Iyo yekumashure inogona kuve dema (kurotomesode) kana yakapusa ruvara (irotomesode), uye iyo zvikonzero zvakachengeterwa chikamu chepasiKurotomesode inopfekwa pamichato nehama dzepedyo, nguva dzose ine kamon shanu; iyo irotomesode inobvumira imwe, matatu, kana shanu jasi remaoko uye inovhara zviitiko zvepamutemo. Sleeve mapfupi uye anowanzoita mapfupi nezera.
Furisode: Manga Inobhururuka Yevasikana Vamwechete
Furisode ndiyo yakaenzana yakaenzana kune vakadzi vechidiki vasina kuroora: maoko akareba kwazvo uye akadhinda akajeka mukimono yose. Kune hurefu hutatu (ko-, chū-, uye ō-furisode), iyo yekupedzisira ichiva iyo ine maoko ari pedyo nemakumbo. Vanopfekwa pazviitiko zvekuuya-kwezera, Zuva reGore Idzva, michato (kana musikana asina kuroora), kana mitambo yekutanga yetii. Maikos vanogara vachiapfeka, ane chimiro chakasiyana.
Homongi: inoshanda uye inoyevedza pakufamba
Semi-formal nekukasira, inogona kukwidziridzwa nemablazons. Chisimbiso chayo ndicho inoenderera pateni inofamba nepakati (eba) uye inosvika kumaoko nemapendekete. MaGeisha anowanzo pfeka nekamoni pamabiko. Ndiyo yakanakisa-inotenderedza yetheater, madhiri akakosha, kana mhemberero dzinoda chimiro pasina kuwandisa.
Tsukesage: hama inoshanda yehōmongi
Yakazvarwa seimwe nzira isingadhure kune hōmongi. Inochengetedza motifs pamaoko uye chikamu chezasi, asi magadzirirwo haapfuuriri pamusoro pe seams, zvichiita kuti nzira yacho iwedzere mari. Pasina jasi rezvombo, iri semi-formal; neimwe kumusana, inogona kupfekwa pazviitiko zvakakomba. Nagoya obi kana fukuro zvinogamuchirwa; never maru-obi, the most formal.
Iromuji na mofuku: kupfava, kupfava no kucema
Iromuji ivara rimwe chete (kwete dema), risina mavara akasungirirwa; inogona kurukwa mujacquard (rinzu) kana crepe (chirimen). Inokodzera mamiriro mazhinji, kunyanya mhemberero dzetii, uye nekamoni, inowana muchimiro. mofuku Ndiko kuchema kutema kwakaiswa nenguvo shanu dzezvombo, dzinopfekwa nemhuri yepedyo pamariro uye zviyeuchidzo; zvimwe sarudza mavara akanyarara ane obi uye zvitema zvishongedzo.
Shiromuku uye bridal set
Pamichato yeShinto, shiromuku inomira pachena, uchikake chena chose, Padded hem uye mavara-akabatanidzwa hardware. Inogona kuperekedzwa newataboshi kana tsunokakushi mumusoro. Pamabiko, kazhinji inochinja kuita uchikake yakajeka tsvuku tsvuku kana mamwe auspicious shades.
Komon: iyo isina kurongeka diki pateni
Iyo inozivikanwa nediki yayo motif inodzokororwa mukati memucheka. Hazvina kurongwa, kunyangwe a Edo komon -kutsika-tsika kunoratidzika kunge kwakatsetseka kubva kure-kunogona kuenderana nechimiro cheiromuji, kunyangwe nekamoni. Iine obi yakanaka, yakanakira enda kunodya kana kufamba-famba.
Yukata: zhizha uye kuzorora
Isina mutsara uye yakagadzirwa nedonje kana shinda dzechirimwa, yukata ndiyo quintessential lightweight hembe. Inopfekwa pamitambo yezhizha, onsen, uye ryokan, ine obi hanhaba uye geta shangu (kazhinji pasina tabi). Nhasi, inouya mumarudzi akasiyana-siyana, kubva kumhando yebhuruu nechena kusvika kune zvipo zvemazuva ano.
The obi: bhandi, jewel uye mutauro
Kubva patambo yekushanda kusvika kune chidimbu chenyeredzi
Pakutanga obi yaive tambo iri nyore kuvhara kosode. MuEdo yakawedzerwa kuti ive central aesthetic element, nezvisungo zvakanyanyisa zvakaita kuti zvive zvakakodzera kuitakura kumusana. Kugadzirwa kweumbozha obi kwakaiswa muNishijin: inonyanya kukosha ndeye Nishiki (shinda dzegoridhe nesirivha) uye tsuzure (tapestry), ese ari maviri ekukosha kukuru.
Musubi: hukama nehunhu
Kune mazana enzira dzekusunga. Pakati pezvinonyanya kuzivikanwa nhasi taiko-musubi (ngoma, inowanzoitika pamichato uye zviitiko zvepamutemo), bunkō (bhokisi, rinoonekwa zvakanyanya neyukata), kai no kuchi (goko muromo, sober) uye otateya (museve, wakabatana nevaroora nevasikana vadiki muzviito zvinoyemurika). Iyo seti inopedzwa ne obi-age (hengechepfu inobatsira kugadzirisa), the obi-jime (kushongedza tambo) uye iyo obi-dome (brooch).
Kuipfekedza zvakanaka: zvidimbu, mitemo uye zvikoro
Inyanzvi ye kitsuke inoda kudzidzira. Pasi pe kimono enda hadajuban (hembe nhete) uye susoyoke (pasikiti) kana musanganiswa; pamusoro, iyo nagajuban, iyo mitsipa inogona kuve yakashongedzwa nehan-eri. Chinhu chose chinoitwa pamwe chete nekoshi-himo uye date-jime kugadzira flat silhouette. White tabi uye kuyambuka kwakakodzera kumberi kwakakosha.
Iyo yakanaka yekuisa inosiya V yakachena pamutsipa, inoratidza zvishoma pamutsipa wemutsipa uye inoratidza hurefu hwakakwana hweobi-age. Hazvishamisi kuenda kuzvikoro zve kitsuke kuti uzviite; kupfeka chipfeko chepamutemo uye obi yakaoma chete inogona kuva basa revanhu vaviri.
Mwaka, kuravira uye maitiro
Iine uye isina lining: tumbae, awase uye usimomo
Karenda inotonga. Kubva munaOctober kusvika munaApril inoshandiswa awase (lined); muna Chivabvu naGumiguru inofamba zvinoenderana nemamiriro ekunze. MunaJune naSeptember inopinda hitoe (isina mutsara); pakati pezhizha. usumono mu ro (chiedza) kana sha (coarser) gauze, kazhinji kusanganisa zvishongedzo zvechinhu chimwe chete. Geishas inyanzvi kutenderera uku.
Mwaka mavara uye motifs
Hupenyu / rufu, zvepabonde, zera, kirasi uye maitiro
Kutevera chirevo chaLiza Dalby, kimono inorongwa pamwe chete nematemo makuru: hupenyu huchipikisa rufu (kuyambuka kunopesana nemushakabvu), Amor (vane zvimwe zvingasarudzwa uye maoko akazaruka), age (maoko anopfupisa sezvaanokura), kuravira uye chimiro (kubva kupenya kwepwere kusvika pakanatswa iki) uye maitiro. Zvishandiso, nhamba yekamoni, ruvara rwemashure, uye nzvimbo yakafukidzwa nemuenzaniso inotsanangura iyo yekupedzisira. Mhedzisiro yechikadzi yehutsika ndiyo kuromontsuki: dema kumashure, majasi mashanu emaoko uye motifs chete muchikamu chepasi.
Misiyano neyemurume kimono
Murume anodonha akatwasuka, ne maoko mapfupi akasonerwa pamuviri, sober color and narrower obi (kaku for ceremonial, heko for informal). Mumhemberero, inosanganiswa ne hakamaIyo yakasviba seti ine mashanu kamoni ndiyo yekupedzisira mukupfeka kwepamutemo. Muzhizha, yukata zvakare isarudzo yakanaka.
Micheka uye maitiro: kana jira riri protagonist
Sakizome: shinda dzinodhayiwa dzisati dzarukwa
Apa ndipo panopinda geometric and symmetrical elements. Zvinopenya tsumugi (hand-spun mbishi sirika, ine hunhu husina kujairika uye rustic charm, yakanakira kuzorora), iyo kasuri (Ikat yechiJapan ine hunhu inopera kana uchidhaya warp uye/kana weft pamberi pechirukwa), the omeshi (silk crepe ine waxed threads uye cross weft) uye jofu (rineni yakanaka). Kubatsira kwayo: ruvara rwemativi maviri uye kusimba kukuru; kushata kwayo: kushomeka kwemaitiro sezvo isiri inopenya, post-dhayi sirika.
Atozome: mashiripiti ekudhaya mushure mekuruka
Inosanganisira zvese kubva pakunyudzwa uye pendi yemahara kusvika kune matekiniki ane nzvimbo dzakachengetwa. Nyeredzi ndiyo yūzen, yakagadzirwa kutenderedza 1700, iyo inoshandisa kusagadzika paste kuprofile uye inobvumira zvakanyatsonaka uye mavara akagadzikana. Kune Kyō yūzen (Kyoto, inofananidzira) uye Kaga yūzen (Kanazawa, naturalistic uye exuberant).
El katazome Iyo paste inoshandiswa kuburikidza nepepa templates (katagami) yakagadzirwa nepersimmon juice kuti irambe; nekuda kweizvi, the komon uye Edo komon yeminimum pattern. Pakupedzisira, the shibori Inounganidza nzira dzekusunga, kupuruzira kana kusona jira kuti richengetere nzvimbo dzisati dzadhayiwa, ine organic uye inoyemurwa mhedzisiro. casual yukata, linings uye obi.
Family crests: chitupa chakapfekwa
ari kamon Ivo vanozivisa mitsara uye okiya, uye vanoonekwa pane ese epamutemo kimono (vese varume nevakadzi). Nhamba ye crests inoyera iyo etiquette (1, 3, kana 5). Mumatunhu egeisha, uchaona zviratidzo zvavo noren, mwenje nezviratidzo, pamwe chete nekuseri kwemakimono avo.
Geishas naMaikos: Hikizuri uye Aesthetics yeZuva rega rega Hupenyu
Wadhiropu yenyanzvi yegeisha inosanganisira makimono anodhayiwa kana aruka uye akagadzirwa nesirika yemhando yepamusoro. Nezviitiko zvakakosha, zvinotaridzika zvakanaka. kurohikizuri (dema, refu uye nejasi remaoko), nepo kubva pane imwe nguva yegore vanova irohikizuri (ruvara). Hikizuri yakarebesa kupfuura yakajairwa, ine muswe unotevera (susohiki) uye, pamabiko, inopararira patatami.
Maikos kupfeka hikizuri type furisode ane dharari obi inowira kunenge kumakumbo uye okobo (shangu refu). Iyo tsvuku yemukati kimono ine mavara machena uye han-darari uta mudanho ravo rekudzidzira inotsanangura maitiro avo. Mumugwagwa, kuti vadzivise kudhonza, vanobata jira rakawandisa (hashori) neruoko rwavo rweruboshwe, vachiratidza nagajuban uye kupa chiratidzo chechiratidzo.
Outerwear nezvimwe zvinhu
Haori: bhachi rinodziya uye rinoshongedza
Iyo haori inopfekwa pamusoro pekimono. Inogona kuva yakareba (yakawanda yakarongeka) kana kuti ipfupi (yakawanda), uye inogona kuvharwa ne haori-himo uye inoratidzwa nemavara matema nekamon (kuromontsuki haori) pamhemberero, kana mumavara uye shibori pamhemberero. Yakatangira pakati pevarume uye yakave yakakurumbira pakati pevakadzi nekuda, muchikamu, kune innovative geisha.
Michiyuki uye dōchūgi: majasi enzira nechando
Michiyuki, kureba kwemakota matatu uye rectangular neckline, inoshanda kunge raincoat inoyevedza, yakakwana pamusoro pe tomesode, hōmongi, kana tsukesage. Iyo dōchūgi ipfupi, yemvere dzemakwai yakavharwa sekimono uye inopa kuchengetedzwa kwakanaka kwemuchando, kunyangwe iri nyore.
Amburera, parasols uye mafeni
Pamazuva ekunaya kana zuva, hapana kushomeka kwe kasa (maamburera echinyakare) uye higasa (parasols) Yakagadzirwa neshenjere nebepa kana sirika. Pamabiko nekutamba, kupeta feni ōugi Hazviparadzanisiki; iyo diki sensu inoshandiswa kumhepo muzhizha.
Kuchengetedza, kuchengetedza uye mutengo
Makimono anokosha aicheneswa nawo arai-hari (kusunungura, kuwacha, uye kubatanidzazve), chirongwa chinodhura chekugadzira chinotsanangura chikamu chekuderera kwayo senguvo yezuva nezuva. Nhasi, zvidimbu zvakawanda zvemazuva ano zvinobvumira kucheneswa kwakaoma kana kushambidzika kwakapfava (kunyanya cotton kana synthetics) muhomwe yekuwachira, isina dryer uye ironing nemucheka pakati pavo. Vanochengetwa vakaputirwa mukati tatōshi uye inoburitswa mwaka nemwaka.
Kimono yakasarudzika inogona kusvika kunhamba huru, kazhinji inoperekedzwa obi, tabi, zori nezvimwe. Ndiko kusaka kuroja kuitira kushandiswa apo neapo kwakajairika, kunyanya pakati pevechidiki, kana kutenga zvinhu zvakamboshandiswa. Mukudzoka, kana ikanyatsotarisirwa, kimono yesilika yakadhayiwa ndiyo mari isingapere.
Pesvedzero yepasi rose uye kududzirazve
Kuvhurwa kweJapan kupasi rose kwakamutsa chiJaponism muEurope neAmerica. Vagadziri vakaita se Paul Poiret yakasanganiswa nemahara silhouette akafuridzirwa nekimono, uye chipfeko chakatoita chiratidzo chayo mumabhaisikopo. MuJapan, zvirongwa zvakadai se Kimono Jack uye zvitoro zvinosanganisa tsika uye zvemazuva ano zvakakurudzira kudzokera kwavo kumugwagwa, dzimwe nguva ne sneakers, caps kana mabrooches emazuva ano paobi-jimeHapana dzidziso kana chinangwa chiri chekunakidzwa nazvo.
Izvo zvakasikwa zvekimono zvakakura, asi nekunzwisisa kwakajeka kwemhando, maitiro, mwaka, machira uye zvishandiso, zviri nyore kunzwisisa kuti nei. Nguo iyi inodarika fashoni uye inoramba ichirova Munzvimbo tsvene, dzimba dzemitambo, dzimba dzegeisha, uye mhemberero dzemhuri. Pakati pehunyanzvi hwekuruka uye chiratidzo chekusunga obi, mazana emakore etsika achiri kuratidzwa nekudada nhasi.
