Indonesia imozaic yezvitsuwa zvinopfuura 17.000 Nyika ine marudzi anenge 1.300 XNUMX anogara pamwe chete; dunhu rega rega rinochengetedza zvipfeko zvaro zvakanyura munhoroondo, zviratidzo, uye akasiyana machira emachira anobatana netsika, chitendero, uye hupenyu hwezuva nezuva.
Kupfuura exoticism, Zvipfeko zvechivanhu zvechiIndonesian zvinotaura nyaya yekwakabva nharaunda yega yegaKubva pamakorona egoridhe anomutsa humambo hwekare kusvika kuhukura masiketi anobatana nesango. Mumitsetse inotevera, tinoongorora zvipfeko zvemifananidzo, zvazvinoreva, zvinhu, uye nguva dzekupfeka. Isu tinotarisawo pambiru mbiri dzemaitiro emunharaunda: batik uye kebaya.
Nhanganyaya kune yechinyakare zvipfeko zveIndonesia
Mhemberero uye zvipfeko zvekupemberera Icho chionioni chenhaka yetsika yeIndonesia: machira ese, ruvara, zvishongo, uye zvishongedzo zvinoburitsa hutongi, mabasa emagariro, uye zvinotendwa, uye zvinopfekwa pamichato, tsika, mitambo, uye zviitiko zvenharaunda.
1. Ulee Balang (Aceh)
Pakutanga kubva kuAceh sultanate, Ulee Balang aifananidzira kukudzwa uye kukudzwa; nhasi inopfekwa pamichato nemitambo mikuru mune vese varume (Linto Baro, ine songket sarong uye yakakwirira musoro) uye yechikadzi (Daro Baro, yakasununguka tunic ine maruva uye mashizha motifs) shanduro.
2. Bundo Kanduang (West Sumatra)
Nemavara akajeka uye Malay, Arabic uye Chinese pesvedzero, Musoro wake unomutsa denga remba yechivanhu, kuratidza basa repakati revakadzi muMinangkabau matrilineal society; inopfekwa pamitambo nemichato.
3. Ulos (North Sumatra)
Handwoven Batak jira ndiro chiratidzo cherudo, kubatana uye chikomborero; iyo Ulos Ragidup inoshuvira hupenyu hurefu / kubudirira uye Ragi Hotang inopiwa kune vachangochata; mangulosi (ceremonial draping) anoratidza ruremekedzo pamichato nepakuzvarwa.
4. Aesan Gede (South Sumatra)
Neshinda dzegoridhe uye zvishongedzo zvakabatana neSuwarna-dwipa, Iyi seti yenziyo inomutsa hukuru hweSriwijaya uye inomira kunze mumutambo wemuchato we "munggah", chikamu chinokosha chemutambo.
5. Teluk Belanga neKebaya Labuh (Riau neRiau Islands)
Matunhu ese ari maviri anogovera tsika dzechiMalay: Kebaya Labuh (blouse refu rine embroidery, rakasanganiswa nebatik kana songket) yevakadzi uye Teluk Belanga (hembe, tirauzi uye tanjak) zvevarume, varipo zvakanyanya pamichato uye zviitiko zvepamutemo.
6. Baju Kurung (Jambi)
Nevelvet (kazhinji mutsvuku) uye Kushongedzwa kwegoridhe kwetagapo, jasmine uye floraInopfekwa nevarume nevakadzi pazviitiko zvepamutemo; varume vanowedzera lacak nekeris, nepo vakadzi vachiisanganisa nejasi renziyo nezvishongo zvegoridhe.
7. Paksian (Bangka Belitung)
Nguwo yemuchato inopesvedzerwa netsika dzeChinese neArab, Tsvuku negoridhe zvinonyanya kukosha nekuda kwechiratidzo chazvo chebudiriro.; zvinosanganisira bhurauzi, siketi, shawl, uye ngowani dzemaoresa zvokusimudzira tsika yacho.
8. Rejang Lebong (Bengkulu)
Iyo rejang bridal attire inobatanidza Manhenga epikoko, maruva, zvishongo zvegoridhe nezvishongoMuroori anopfeka shati / blazer nemaketani uye bhandi renziyo, kazhinji nekeris; izvi zvinopfekwa mumichato yechivanhu.
9. Tulang Bawang (Lampung)
Nezvakarukwa zvakanaka zvendarama nesirivha; inomiririra kubudirira, runako uye hunyanzvi hwenzvimbo, inoperekedzwa nemahedhi, maketani uye zvishongo pamazuva anokosha uye zviitiko zvetsika.
10. Pangi (Banten)
Chipfeko chakasviba kana chakasviba, chakasununguka uye chinoshanda chine shati uye bhurugwa rakakura, yakabatana nemitambo yehondo uye tsika; kureruka kwayo kunoratidza kuzivikanwa kwaBanten uye kudiwa kwerusununguko rwekufamba.
11. Baju Sadariah and Kebaya Encim (Betawi, Jakarta)
Jakarta inosanganisa maChinese, Arabic neDutch pesvedzero: Baju Sadariah (hembe yakasununguka, bhurugwa nepeci) kwavari uye Kebaya Encim (blouse rakarukwa rine pareo kana batik) kwavari, rinonyanya kuoneka pamitambo.
12. Baju Bedahan naKebaya Sunda (West Java)
Bedahan (hembe yorudzi rwebhachi jena, ine batik, bhandi, hembe newachi yecheni) yaipfekwa nevakuru vakuru munguva dzevadzori; the Kebaya Sunda Mukadzi, U-mutsipa, yakareba uye mune mavara akajeka, inoshandiswa mumitambo yakawanda.
13. Basahan (Central Java)
Yakabatana nehumambo hwekare hweMataram, Basahan anopfeka pamichatoMurume anopfeka dhodhi, necklace, uye keris nemuviri wake usina kuvharwa; mukadzi anopfeka kemben nedodot, ane henzuru nezvishongo; uzivi hwavo hunonangidzira pakuchena uye kuzvipira kuna Mwari.
14. Ksatrian Ageng (Yogyakarta)
Men's Palace set: dema velvet laken jekete ine goridhe trim, keris/batik motifs, tirauzi nhema, batik waistband, uye herosi; inomiririra kunaka, ushingi, uye tsika dzedare.
15. Pese'an naKebaya Rancongan (Madura, East Java)
Pese'an yevarume: shati dzekotoni dzakasununguka dzisina mabhatani ekushanda, gomboran pants, plekat sarong uye terompah sandal, dzimwe nguva neceluit; mukadzi Kebaya Rancongan akasimba-akakodzera (brocade kana donje) ane ruzivo pachipfuva, anopfekwa panguva dzakakosha.
16. Payas Agung (Bali)
Zvipfeko zvemuchato zvinoyevedza uye mazino ekuisa: korona yakakwirira, tapih, kemben uye kamen prada ankle-length; srinata pahuma, maruva egoridhe sandat, bhandi remafudzi, uye bhanhire zvinowedzerwa kusimbisa runyararo.
17. Mambo Baba naMambo Bibinge (Dayak, West Borneo)
Nguo dzakagadzirwa nemakwati emuti (ampuro/kapuo) dzakanyorova, dzakarohwa uye dzakapendwa nemavara echisikigo; bhandi remusoro rine minhenga yeEnggang uye mandau Kwaari, shanduro ine mwero, yechikadzi ine mabheji, midzi, uye mapfupa; vanobatana nemasikirwo uye zvinhu zvesango.
18. Ta'a naSapei Sapaq (Dayak, North Kalimantan)
Ta'a yevakadzi ivheti revelvet uye siketi ine mabead neminhenga inoratidza chimiro; murume Sapei Sapaq Inobatanidza abet kaboq (pfupi), vheti, uye zvinhu zvakadai semandau uye mazino necklace; anoshandiswa mutsika nemhemberero.
19. Sangkarut (Dayak Ngaju, Central Borneo)
Vest yakagadzirwa nemakwati kana jira ne beads uye zvechinyakare motifs izvo zvinoratidza simba, ushingi, uye kubatana kune zvakasikwa; zvinowedzerwa nemaketani emapfupa kana mazino uye zvinopfekwa mumhemberero dzenzanga.
20. Babaju Kun Kalung Pacinan (Banjar, South Borneo)
Brightly colored banjar suit uye embroidery yakanaka neChinese imprint; shati refu uye tirauzi ine motif dzakaoma kunzwisisa, uchapupu hwenzira dzekare dzekutengeserana, dzaipfekwa mumitambo uye zviitiko zvetsika.
21. Kustin (Kutai, East Borneo)
Elegant black velvet set with goridhe embroidery stunsKuvakadzi: hembe refu uye sarong ine Tapeh Berumbai uye wapen chishongo; kuvarume: hembe ine maoko marefu, bhurugwa, dhodhi, uye hembe yeSetorong ine minhenga.
22. Biliu naMakuta (Gorontalo)
Zvipfeko zvemuchato zvine musanganiswa weIslam uye zvitaera zvemuno: Murume Makuta with headdress laapia bantali sibi (leadership), necklace bako (commitment) and pasimeni (harmony); Biliu mukadzi nenguwani dzemicheka minomwe dzetuhi-tuhi, nerayi, nekorona; zvinoonekwa pamichato nepamutambo weSaronde.
23. Pattuqduq Towaine (Mandar, West Sulawesi)
Chipfeko chechikadzi chekutamba kwezita rimwe chete: micheka yakajeka uye ine mavara Iine embroidery uye zvishongedzo zvinosimudzira nyasha dzayo, inzvimbo yepakati yeMandarin mhemberero nemhemberero.
24. NGEmbe (Kaili, Central Sulawesi)
Nguo yakasununguka-yakasununguka ine mutsipa wakatenderera uye maoko mapfupi, inoperekedzwa nasampo dada, dali taroe, gemo, ponto date uye pende, and a Buya Sabe Kumbaja sarong; tsvuku, yero, uye dema ndizvo zvinonyanya kuitika pazviitiko zvetsika.
25. Laku Tepu (Minahasa, North Sulawesi)
Pandanus yakarukwa fiber set (blouse uye sarong) ne necklaces neheaddress dzechivanhu; rinoshandiswa mumitambo, richifananidzira kubatana nemasikirwo uye ndangariro dzemadzitateguru.
26. Babu Ngaga (Tolaki, Southeast Sulawesi)
Chipfeko chine sarongs inopenya, yakanyatsogadzirwa mabhurauzi uye zvishongedzo zvakajairika zveTolaki aesthetics; zvinopfekwa mumhemberero, zvichiratidza kuzivikanwa kwenzvimbo uye hunyanzvi.
27. Baju Bodo naBaju Pokko (Bugis neToraja, South Sulawesi)
Baju Bodo (rectangular, short sleeve) kodhi zera uye chimiro neruvara: girini (vanokudzwa), chena (shamans / vashumiri), yepepuru (chirikadzi), orenji (vasikana 10), tsvuku (17); yakasanganiswa ne plaid sarong uye zvishongo; Baju Pokko toraja (ine maoko mapfupi, yero/tsvuku/chena) inochengeterwa zviitiko zvepamutemo nemabhande emumusoro uye kandure.
28. Lambung naPegon (Sasak, West Nusa Tenggara)
Mukadzi Lambung: isina maoko dema V-mutsipa chipfeko, jira repafudzi nesaroni, kazhinji nesirivha; murume Pegon anosanganisa maitiro eJavanese neEuropean (jacket, sarong, uye Cappuq headdress); zvinowanzoitika pamhemberero nemitambo.
29. Hinggi (Sumba, East Nusa Tenggara)
Kune varume: ikat Tiara Patang headdress ine ekufananidzira akasiyana uye Kabiala chombo sechiratidzo chesimbaMuti Salak/Kanatar jewelry; kuvakadzi: machira eLau Kawar/Lau Pahudu ane Taba Huku, tiaras, Maraga, Mamuli, uye maketani; inopfekwa pamhemberero dzinokosha.
30. Baju Cele (Moluccas)
Kurung blouse kusvika pakati-hudyu ne geometric mitsetse/cheki, kazhinji mutsvuku (mufaro uye agility), zvakasanganiswa nekain salele; inoperekedzwa nesanggul kana konde bulan nemapini egoridhe/sirivheri emhemberero nemitambo yeadat.
31. Manteren Lamo (Northern Moluccas)
Chipfeko chevarume cheSultanate nhaka: jekete dzvuku rakavharwa nemabhatani makuru esirivha (mabhatani mapfumbamwe) nendarama yakarukwa pazvigadziko, pahuro, nepahomwe; inobatanidzwa netirauzi nhema uye musoro wezviitiko zvepamutemo.
32. Koteka (Papua)
Kufukidzwa kwechirume kwenhanga uye shiri beak caps; chimiro chayo nokurongwa zvinosiyana nedzinza nechinzvimbo (Dani, Yali, Lani), zvichireva chimiro munzanga; chinhu chakasiyana chekuzivikanwa.
33. Ewer (West Papua)
Siketi dzemashanga dzakaoma varume uye top/skirt yevakadzi, dzimwe nguva inopfekwa nepamusoro pemachira nhasi; ivo vanowedzerwa nemahedhiremu ane motif dzemunharaunda pamhemberero uye zviitiko zvepamutemo.
34. Pummi (South Papua)
Yakarukwa sago leaf miniskirt, nemipendero isina kusimba inovhara hudyu nezvidya; kureba kunosiyana nevarume uye kunoshandiswa mutsika dzechinyakare dzedunhu.
35. Sali neYokal (Southwest Papua)
Ose maviri emuti bark (sago): Sali anozivisa vakadzi vasina varume ine hunhu hwebrown hue; Yokal chipfeko chemazuva ese chevakadzi vakaroorwa, chinorukwa kuti chifukidze muviri; vanogovera zvose unyanzvi uye chiratidzo chetsika.
Kebaya: mavambo, zvitaera uye kushanduka
Iyo kebaya ine midzi muzvipfeko zveArabhu (zvichida yakabva kune abaya) uye yakabatanidzwa mudare reMajapahit kugadzirisa kemben kuti iwedzere kuzvininipisa neIslamization; kubva kuAceh kuenda kuRiau neJohor, chaive chiratidzo chechimiro pamberi pedemokrasi.
Kusvikira 1600 yaingoiswa kune aristocracy; gare gare yakagamuchirwa nevanhuwo zvavo uye varimi (kunyange nhasi, vakadzi vakawanda vakwegura vanopfeka zuva nezuva). Iyo yekare vhezheni inosanganisira semi-sheer blouse pamusoro pekemben, yakachengetedzwa nepakati clasp (kerongsang) uye yakasanganiswa nekain kana sarong.
Kerongsang inogona kuva ye ndarira, simbi, sirivha kana ndarama (zvidimbu zvitatu: ibu uye maviri anak) uye chaive chiratidzo chechimiro; makirasi ezasi akashandisa peniti (mapini ekuchengetedza). Kaini, yakareba mamita matatu uye isina musono, inobatwa panzvimbo netambo nebhandi; inogona kuva batik, songket, ikat, kana tapis, zvichienderana nenharaunda.
Makora uye kucheka: V (Javanese, Kartini, Balinese, encim), square (Kutubaru) kana U (Sundanese/modern). Iyo Kutubaru inosanganisira "bef" chidimbu chinogadzira sikweya neckline uye kazhinji inoperekedzwa ne stagen/sash ye stylization.
Zvitaera: Kebaya Kartini (yakaonda, isina kujeka, kazhinji ichena, ine zvishoma zvekushongedza uye pleat yakasiyana), yakakonzera yunifomu yeGaruda; iyo Balinese kebaya inowedzera obi pamusoro pebhurauzi uye inowanzobatanidza mabhatani, ane zvishoma mapfupi maoko ekupfeka kwemazuva ese.
Encim musiyano (Peranakan) muJava: yakanakisa embroidery, machira akareruka uye mavara akajeka, yakanaka nebatik pesisiran; muMalacca, iyo nyonya kebaya inowedzera shangu dzakashongedzwa (kasut manek) uye Chinese motifs, inozivikanwawo muPenang, Singapore, uye Phuket.
Munguva dzemakoloni, Vakadzi veEurope neIndia Vakagamuchira kebaya nokuda kwekutonhodza kwayo mumamiriro ekunze anopisa, vachishandisa donje rakareruka uye tambo dzinounzwa kunze kwenyika; panguva yekutonga kweJapan, vasungwa veIndonesia vaipfeka sechiratidzo chenyika uye chiziviso.
Nhasi vari kugara pamwe chete dudziro dzemazuva ano: zipi, mabhatani, uye machira; yakapfekwa nejean kana masiketi, uye ndege dziri mudunhu (Malaysia, Singapore) dzinoshandisa batik kebaya seyunifomu yavo; Garuda Indonesia inoturikirazve Kartini nemachira asingapindi murazvo uye mabatik sarong ane parang/garuda/jasmine motifs.
Batik: maitiro, maitiro uye zviratidzo
Batik, nzira yekuchengetera nyuchi, Akazvishandisa amene nounyanzvi muJava uye muna 2009 yakawedzerwa kuUNESCO's List of Intangible Cultural Heritage; donje kana sirika inodhayiwa kuita zvidimbu nekubvisa wakisi nesimbi kana mvura inodziya.
Zvishandiso uye maitiro: canting (chishandiso chemaoko chine hunyanzvi) uye Batik Cap (muzana remakore rechi19 molds dzinoita kuti zvinhu zvidhure uye nekukurumidza); inland Java inofarira ochers / mabrown / matema ekufananidzira, nepo mahombekombe ekuchamhembe achibatanidza maChinese / maJapan pesvedzero uye mavara akajeka.
Mhuri dzakakura dzekugadzira: Semen (Pesvedzero yechiHindu, Garuda neMount Meru), Buttekan (Dutch-style maruva marongero) uye Prada (micheto ine goridhe inopa zororo uye kupenya).
Chikonzero Parang Rusak (inozivikanwa diagonal mitsetse) yakagadzirwa naSultan Agung; inongochengeterwa dare, inotaura nezvemabasa omudzimu amambo. Zvinhu zvaro zvinodudzirwa sezvinotevera: masaisai (miedzo yeupenyu), madhaimondi (mubayiro wokushivirira/uchenjeri), musoro waGaruda (njere), muviri (simba uye utano), mapapiro (chiito), muromo unopfuta (kukwanisa “kupisa” zvipingamupinyi), uye makuhwa (simba rokusarudza mugumo wevamwe).
Muhupenyu hwezuva nezuva, Batik rinoshandiswa mumachira, ngowani, kana kuti shawl dzevana. Uye nhasi, zviri kuita kusvetukira kune zvipfeko zvemazuva ano. Nemamwe maChishanu muhofisi, vanhu vanokurudzirwa kupfeka hembe dzebatik kuti vasimbise tsika dzavo.
Machira uye matekiniki muBali uye zvitsuwa
MuBali, kuruka, ruvara uye tsika hazviparadzaniswe: machira chiratidzo chimiroVanodzivirira kumadhimoni uye vanoreverera kupisa zvitunha; mhuri dzehumambo dzinopfeka silika negoridhe / sirivha, uye pole (dema / chena checkered) inovhara zvidhori nemiti inoyera.
IKAT: unyanzvi hwekusunga nekudhaya usati warukwa. Endek (sirika yakarukwa, inoshandiswa zuva nezuva mumasarong/zvikafu), Cepuk (donje rinoyera kubva kuNusa Penida, inodzivirira), uye Geringsing (kat kaviri kubva kuTenganan, isina kusimba, inodhura, uye inonzi inoera) ndiwo akakosha eBalinese maitiro.
Muraravungu: partial knotting yejira kuramba dhayi; Songket: bhurodhi negoridhe / sirivha shinda yezvipfeko zvemhando yepamusoro (michato); Prada: donje rinopenya kana silika negoridhe / sirivha shizha (nhasi pende), inowanikwa mukutamba nekushongedza.
Kamben Poleng: jira recheckered rinofananidzira masimba anopikisa uye anopindirana; muBali endek Iyo yakawanda kupfuura batik muupenyu hwemazuva ose, uye mushure mekusununguka yakave yakakurumbira sechitsuwa, kunyange zvazvo kugadzira kwayo kwemaoko kuri kudzikira. tenun Java industrialist.
Dzimwe nzvimbo dzezvitsuwa: Flores (20+ nhanho, mwedzi mumwe webasa, zviratidzo zvedzinza / zvechitendero), sumba (matanho makumi mana nemaviri, kusvika kumakore mana, madhayi echisikigo uye basa repakati muhupenyu kutenderera), Ulos (Batak, kupisa kwekufananidzira pamwe nezuva/moto) uye Batik Papua (kubvira 1985, ine makodhi emunharaunda echisikigo uye tsika).
Zvikamu zvakakosha zvezvipfeko zvevarume nevakadzi
Varume: batik shirt zvepamutemo/zvisina kurongwa; beskap (jasi rakaoma reJavanese, dzimwe nguva rine mabhatani egoridhe); ulos (pafudzi kana chiuno mumitambo); sarong/kain (hamvuropu yakasiyana-siyana); uye blangkon (Javanese batik headdress).
Vakadzi: kebaya (lace kana brocade bhurauzi-chipfeko chine embroidery), kain panjang (siketi yakaputirwa), selendang (shawl inounza nyasha), songket (mucheka wepamusoro wezviitiko zvakakosha) uye sanggul (bhandi rakashongedzwa nehairpins nemaruva).
Bali: zvekunamata, kutamba uye hupenyu hwezuva nezuva
Bali inosanganiswa mahombekombe, makomo anoputika, masango uye temberi Nesimba remweya iro vafambi vazhinji vanowana risingadzivisiki; mimhanzi ye gamelan inoyera, uye kutamba, kune simba uye kwakanyatso mudras, maitiro, uye maziso, akapfeka zvipfeko zvisingakanganwiki.
Chiwi chinonhuwa zvinonhuhwira nezvinonhuhwira, uye chitendero chechiHindu cheBalinese chinopinda muchinhu chiri chose: zvinopiwa, atari dzepamba, uye zvidhori zvinoshongedza kona iri yose. Vanhu vayo vane mutsa uye vakagadzikana vanogara pamwe chete nekushanya vasingarasikirwe netsika dzavo uye mapfekero.
Zuva nezuva, Vakadzi vechiBalinese vanopfeka kebaya (kazhinji ine corset inoenderana kana bra, uye obi pachiuno), yakasanganiswa ne batik sarongs kana endeks; maprofessionals akawanda akabatanidza madhizaini akafuridzirwa nekucheka kwechinyakare.
Batik, kunyange zvazvo yakawanda yeJava, Inowanikwawo muBali uye mumiunganidzwa yemazuva ano; kunyangwe mabhureki azvino seMundo Tribal akaiisa mu sweatshirts, bhurugwa, mabhegi, uye uta, zvichiratidza kukosha kwayo kunze kwemaitiro emhemberero.
Kune avo vanopinda muchitsuwa nemudhudhudhu pakati peminda yemupunga uye misha yeshenjereHazvisi zvisizvo kusangana nemudungwe umo ruvara rwemicheka, kupenya kwerwiyo rwenziyo kana geometry yepoleng inoratidza kupomba kwenharaunda.
Traditional Indonesian fashoni ndiyo unyanzvi, chitupa uye tsikaKubva kudare reMajapahit iro rakagadzira kebaya kusvika kune kaviri ikat yeTenganan nekorona dzegoridhe dzinorarama pamichato, chipfeko chega chega chinobatanidza hunyanzvi, kutenda, uye ndangariro murunako runosiya pasina anokanganisa.
