Ijipita yekare yainhuwa resin, maruva, mafuta uye utsi hunoyeraKure nekuve chishuwo chiri nyore, Perfume yaitaura nezvehutsanana, mushonga, hupenyu hwemagariro uye kunamata Mwari kumahombekombe eNairi.Manyoro ehungwaru sekutanga kweDzidziso dzePtahhotep akaraira kuzodza mukadzi wemunhu nemafuta, zvichiratidza kuti, kubva kumadzinza ekutanga, Kuchengetwa kwezvinonhuhwirira kwaive chikamu chezvakanakira hupenyu.
Perfume, mafuta ekuzora uye zvizorwa zvaive zviratidzo zvechimiro uye maturusi anoshanda achipesana nekuoma nekupisa kwemamiriro ekunze.Varume nevakadzi vanonhuhwirira ganda ravo uye wigi, kwete chete kunhuhwirira kwakanaka pamabiko nevateereri, asiwo kuderedza kunhuhwirira kwakashata uye kudzivirira ganda; Muchokwadi, vaIjipita vaibatanidza kunhuhwirira kunofadza nekuchena, hutano uye kuchengetedzwa pamweya..
Mbiru yehupenyu hwezuva nezuva: hutsanana, chimiro uye mafaro
Pefiyumu yaikosha muchimbuzi chekuIjipiti.: Aive akachengetedzwa muzvirongo zvearabhasta, faience, kana kuti opaque girazi rakashongedzwa nebhuruu yakadzika kudzivirira mafuta kubva kuchiedza. Mifananidzo yemakuva inoratidza vaenzi vane mafuta anonhuwirira anozorwa pamawigi avo, maitiro ehutsika uye kunatsiridza.
Kunhuhwirira kwakanaka kwakanga kwakafanana nemukurumbira uye ruremekedzo munzanga.Kupfuura aesthetics, Hutsanana uye kunyange kurapa zvinhu zvainzi zvakakonzerwa nezvimwe zvinonhuhwiriraZvaidavirwa kuti kunhuwirira kwaiita mhoteredzo kwairichenesa uye kunodzivirira hosha, chikonzero chiripo zvikuru mumafungiro ezvokurapa nechitendero omuNile Valley.
Munyika umo kupisa kwaidzvinyirira, zvizoro zvakakora zvakanyorova uye zvinonhuhwirira panguva imwe chete.Iyi mbiri mbiri inotsanangura kushandiswa kwayo kwakapararira: Vakadzikisira kuoma kweganda uye, zvakasanganiswa ne essences, zvakaderedza kunhuhwirira kwemafuta uye dikita., kushandura chinhu chinodiwa kuva umbozha hunochiva.
Kubva pamunhu kusvika kune funerary trousseau, Perfume yacho yaiperekedza biography yese. Mafuta uye essences Vakanga vari chikamu chezvinhu zveguva kubva kumadzinza ekutanga; Kuchengeta hwema kwaipfuura zvechivanhu ndokubata zvinoyera, nechivimbiso chokufadza vamwari muupenyu huno nohunotevera.
Zvinyorwa zvekare uye zveEgypt zvinobvumirana pamusoro pemukurumbira wekunhuhwirira weNyika yeNairi.Pliny Mukuru akataura kuti Egypt ndiyo yaive nzvimbo yakanyatsokodzera kugadzira zvinonhuhwirira, uye zvakawanikwa nevanochera matongo — mabhodhoro, zvipunu zvekuzora, zvisaririra zvekoni — zvinotsigira izvi. kushandiswa kwakapararira uye kwakasiyana-siyana.
Pefiyumu nokunamata: kubva mangwanani zvinonhuwira kusvika ku“munhuhwi woumwari”
Perfume yaiva mutauro wetsika. Mutemberi Rusenzi yaipiswa mangwanani, mura masikati, uye kyphi usiku., sezvakatsanangurwa naPlutarch. Kyphi (kana kuti kapet) waiva musanganiswa wakaoma wemaresini, tsanga dzinonhuhwirira, uchi, mazambiringa akaomeswa newaini., yakabatana nekucheneswa kwenzvimbo tsvene.
Vamwari “vakafema” hwemaVaprista vakazodza zvifananidzo zvamwari namafuta anonhuwira. chiratidzo chehupenyu nekuremekedzaZvinyorwa zvakadai seHarris Papyrus zvinomutsa kunhuwira kwePunt—nyika yeNyanga yeAfrica—kunofashamira temberi mambakwedza, dimikira rechitendero chipenyu uye chinonhuwira.
Pamariro uye kuomeswa zvitunha, pefiyumu yaipa upenyu hwokufananidzira.. Mafuta uye resins havana kuchengetedza muviri chete; vakapawo mushakabvu munhuwi wehumwari, zvakakosha kugamuchirwa navamwariIwo Pyramid Zvinyorwa zvinoreva zvinonhuhwirira sechipo kubva paZiso raHorus, mutakuri wemweya nesimba.
Kunhuwa ndiko kwainyanya kufara nevaEgipita.Mucherechedzo wemhino mune hieroglyphics uye tsika yekugamuchira vamwari vanonhuhwirira ne "dikita raMwari" Zvinoratidza chivimbo chokuti kunhuhwirira kwakanaka kunoswededza munhu pedyo nezvitsvene uye kunodzinga pesvedzero dzinokuvadza..
Perfume cones nemabhodhoro: humbowo hwezvinhu zvetsika inonhuhwirira
Ma "cones" akakurumbira mumusoro akanga asiri chiratidzowo zvachoZvichangobva kuwanikwa zvinosimbisa izvozvo Aiva makoni akasimba emafuta anonhuwirira ayo, nokupisa, ainyunguduka zvishoma nezvishoma, kuisa wigi uye ganda panguva yemabiko nemhemberero, chiitiko chakajairika muTheban art.
Cosmetic trousseau inowanikwa kwese mukuvigwa. Alabaster, girazi, kana midziyo yeramic yakanaka; zvipunu zvakavezwa; lotus maruva; uye zvirongo zvidiki zvinowanzoitika, kuratidza kukosha kwepefiyumu muhupenyu nerufu.
Zvisungo: pakati peNairi uye nzira dzezvinonhuwira
Miti yenzvimbo iyi yakapa palette yakafaranuka inonhuhwirira: lily, iris, myrtle, white and blue lotus, maruva akasiyana-siyana, mint, marjoram, dill, rushes anonhuhwirira, henna, midzi yeminzwa yeminzwa nemichero yebalanito; pakati pevamwe. Kunyangwe Theophrastus akafunga izvozvo Maruva ekuEgipita akanga asinganyanyi kunhuwirira nokuda kwounyoro hweNairi, vaIjipiti vaikoshesa zvakasiyana-siyana zvaro.
Iyo yekunze yakasvika kuburikidza nekutengeserana, nzendo uye muteroJasmine, sinamoni, safuroni, uye, pamusoro pezvose, resin: rusenzi, mura, mabharisamu, uye coniferi uye terebhinti zvigadzirwa zvaibva kuIndia. Zvinhu zvakawanda zvakabatanidzwa se“rusenzi” mupfungwa yakafara, kunyange zvazvo vakanga vakasiyana zvakajeka mukuita.
Nzira dzinonhuhwirira dzinopupurirwa zvakanakaZviyamuro kubva mutemberi yaHatshepsut zvinorondedzera rwendo rwekuPunt kunotora mura nezvinonhuwira; kunewo humbowo hwechikepe chakapunzika kubva kumhenderekedzo yekumaodzanyemba kweTurkey ine zvakapoteredza 100 resin midziyo (Pistacia terebinthus) yaienda kuEgypt, yakanyorwa kutenderedza kutonga kweAkhenaten nechisimbiso chine cartouche yeNefertiti.
Kunyoreswa kunosimbisa iyo perfume logisticsKuAmarna, "resin itsva yaKaputeni Ini, yakacheneserwa mugadziri wekuzora Jaemuaset" yakanyorwa. Uchapupu hwakananga hwemakina ekutengesa uye ehunyanzvi edare reAmarna.
Kubvisa uye kugadzirisa maitiro: mafuta, mafuta uye mastery
VaEgipita vakanga vasingadishwi kana kushandisa doro sehwaro.Zvinonhuhwira zvavo zvakanga zviri mafuta anonhuwira namafuta; dzimwe nguva vairerutsa misanganiswa newaini kuti gadzirisa kusimba, asi tsigiro yacho yaive nemafuta kana girizi.
Mafuta eBalan (kubva kubalanito) nemafuta ebaq (kubva ku ben nut ye moringa) aive mabhesiro akakosha.. Iyo baq, isinganhuhwi uye yakagadzikana, yakagadziriswa uye yakachengetedza essences zvakanaka.; kushorwa kwayo kumarara kwakaita kuti ifarirwe nemacerations marefu.
Maceration nemafuta emhuka (nyama yemombe, dhadha) yakatevedzera primitive enfleurage. Vaichinjanisa mafuta nemaruva kuti vatore essence; ipapo, mafuta anonhuwirira aya aiiswa kana kuti akabatanidzwa mune mamwe mafuta okuzora.
Vakashandisa zvigadziriso zvepanyama kuti vawedzere kunhuhwirira. Zvikamu zvakaita senge spathe yemuchindwe zvakataurwa, zvinokwanisa kunonoka kubuda uye kupa kushingirira, ruzivo runoshamisa rwezveruzivo rwakanaka.
Mapefiyumu anozivikanwa uye mabikirwo ekare
Classical manyuko anochengetedza akadzama mafomula. Pliny Mukuru anotsanangura pefiyumu yehenna ine omphacium (mafuta omuorivhi kubva kumiorivhi yakasvibirira), cardamom, yellow iris, aspalathus, southernwood, nemhando dzesadza, mura uye panaceaDioscorides inotsanangura metopion, ine galbanum, maarumondi anovava, omphacium, cardamom, kunhuhwirira-kunhuhwirira rush, inonhuhwirira kalamu, uchi, waini, mura, carpobalsam uye resin.
Perfume yemaruva ndiyo yainyanya kuzivikanwaInozivikanwa se sousinon kana lirinon, inofananidzira kufarira kweEgypt kune zvibvumirano zvemaruva zvisina kunaka uye zvakaputira. yakanyatsosimbiswa mumabhesi ane mafuta.
Mendesiano: inonaka uye ine mukurumbira. Yakagadzirwa muMendes (Delta), yakasanganiswa balanito mafuta, mura, kasia uye resin; mamwe mabikirwo akawedzera sinamoni, kunyange zvakadaro Yakayeverwa kuti zvinogadzirwa zvinofanira kubikwa pamwe chete kuti zvibudise hunhu hwavo.
Zvimwe zvinonhuhwirira zvine mukurumbira zvinopedzisa bhuku racho: Susinum (ruva, mura, sinamoni), Cyprinum (henna, cardamom, matanda, mura, sinamoni), Stakte (mura inoisa pfungwa, yakanyanya kwazvo), Rhondinium (sinamoni, mura newaini inotapira) uye kyphi inowanikwa kwose kwose nekusanganiswa kwayo kunhuhwirira uye mhemberero.
Vanamwari vekunhuhwirira: Nefertum naShesmu
Nefertum akafananidzira lotus uye kuberekwazve kwezuva kunhuhwirira. Anoratidzwa semwana kana jaya richibuda muruva, zvine chokuita nemambakwedza uye kuchena, aiva muchengeti wemafuta ekuzora uye kunhuhwirira kunobatsira; Inotoonekwa muPiramidhi Zvinyorwa se "ruva reroti rinonhuhwirira mumhino dzaRa".
Shesmu, aive nechiso chegora nemaoko echitsikidzi, aive ishe wezvinonhuhwirira newaini.MuEdfu neDendera anonzi "Master of Perfumes." Chimiro chake chisina kujeka somutsikiriri anoranga vatadzi uye anopa simba vakafa Inobatanidzwa nesimba rinokosha rezvinwiwa zvinoyera, kubva pawaini kusvika kumafuta anonhuhwirira.
KuvaEgipita, kunhuwa ndiyo yaiva nzira huru yokufara.Zvaitendwa kuti mufaro "wakapinda" kuburikidza nemhino, pfungwa inooneka muzviratidzo zvemanyorero uye muchitendero, umo temberi dzaifanira kuiswa mura nezvinonhuwira kuti zviremekedze kuvapo kwoumwari..
Sacred workshops, monopolies neperfume business
Temberi dzaive nzvimbo dzekutsvagisa nekugadziraMu "ma laboratories" avo mafuta ekuzora aiitirwa pakunamata; hieroglyphic mabikirwo akachengetedzwa muEdfu uye, Zuva nezuva muprista aizodza chifananidzo chamwari nemafuta nezvinonhuwira., chiito chinokosha chetsika.
Hurumende nematemberi zvaidzora mafomula nemaketani anokoshaMunguva yeHumambo Hutsva uye zvakajeka munguva yePtolemaic, Kugadzirwa kwaidzorwa, kuine monopolies, mitero uye kunyange zvitemo zvinoisa zvikamu zvezvigadzirwa uye nzira dzekugadzirira.
Maguta akaita seHeliopolis akamira pamusangano wavoMamwe maperfume emhando yepamusoro Vaingokwanisa kugadzirwa munzvimbo dzakabatana nematemberi akadai seEdfu kana Dendera; midziyo—arabhasta, girazi kana ceramic yakanaka— zvaingova zvinhu zvoumbozha, zvinenge zvakakosha sezviri mukati.
Zvekurima zvinonhuhwirira zvaivewo zvine hunyanzvi. Kudyarwa kwemaruva, cardamom uye zvimwe zvinhu zvakasvibirira zvakabatanidzwa kune nyika dzeumambo kana dzevapristi; Korona yakatora mari kubva mukutengeswa kwayo, ichisimbisa masimba echitendero-ehupfumi.
Mapindu, nzvimbo uye "mhino" yeNairi
Bindu rekuIjipiti raiva rabhoritari yekunhuhwirira. Pamusoro pemaruva emusango anofarirwa neNairi, VaEgipita vairima marudzi aibva kunzeMapindu, akatsvinda uye aine madziva, aipa mimvuri, michero nemaruva; kudada kwemumba uye marongero emanheru anonhuhwirira.
Bindu reNebhamuni rinoratidza chiyero nekusiyana:
- 170 michindwe, 120 dum palm miti, 5 mionde, 2 moringa, 12 minda yemizambiringa
- 5 matamba, 16 miti ye carob, 5 minzwa, 8 sauces
- 10 tamarind, 5 muakasia, 2 myrtles uye 5 miti isingazivikanwe
Hunyoro hweNairi uye mhepo dzakaumba maonero ekunhuwa. Vanyori vekare vaiti kune kumwe kungwara kumaruva eEgypt nekuda kwenzvimbo ine mwando; kunyange zvakadaro, nhetembo uye zvinyorwa zvinopemberera nzizi, mhepo yekuchamhembe uye iyo flowerbeds yakasimwa nemishonga inonhuhwirira.
Mapefiyumu aiiswa nekuchengetwa sei
Mamiriro acho aive nemafuta kana mafuta, uye kwenguva refu paganda. Ndokusaka vaIjipita vakawana mapefiyumu akasimba uye asingaperi., zvakasiyana zvikuru nezvinwiwa zvinodhaka zvemazuva ano. The dense texture yaifarira kugadzirisa paganda uye wigs.
Zvirongo zvakagadzirirwa kuchengetedza. Opaque, ane madziro makobvu nemitsipa yakamanikana; shoma oxidation uye chiedza; kushongedzwa kwayo kwaizivisawo chinzvimbo uye yaishanda semariro kana kuti chibayiro chechitendero.
Waini yaigona kushandiswa kupfavisa mafomu ane simbaKunyange zvazvo vasina kugadzira mweya yakasvibiswa, Ivo vaiziva simba rewaini roku“rerutsa” mapefiyumu akadzama kana kuti kugadziridza mitsetse, chiratidzo chekuedza nguva dzose.
Tsika yakabatana nenyika yekare
Egypt neMesopotamia ndezvimwe zvekwakabva pefiyumuMuMesopotamia Tapputi-Belatekallim, mumwe wevatangi vezvinonhuhwirira vanozivikanwa, anoyeukwa; muEgipita, maceration, enfloration uye pressure zvakabva zvanyatsogonakunyange zvakadaro Distillation yaizouya gare gare.
Tsika dzakafanana dzakabuda muIndia neChinaItar yeIndia, isiri-doro distillate, raishandiswa semishonga; muChina, masaga anonhuhwirira ane mishonga akave akakurumbira, zvinhu zvakapfuura fashoni nenguva.
Girisi neRoma zvakagara nhaka uye zvakawedzera nhaka. VaGiriki vainhuhwirira zvidhori nemiviri, naHippocrates achikurudzira mabhati anonhuhwirira; muRoma, Iyo ungüentarii yakabatanidza sangano nemafuta akasimba, emvura uye ehupfu, uye mabhuku ebhotani uye nzira dzekuchengetedza dzakagadzirwa.
Persia, Byzantium neIslam zvakasimudzira kutengeserana uye tekinorojiMigwagwa yokuMiddle East inoparadzira marara akadai semura nemisidhari; munyika yeArabhu, ine nhamba dzakadai saAvicenna, iyo distillation uye kushandiswa kwemvura yerose yakave yakakwana, kugadzirira nzvimbo yezvinonhuhwirira zveEurope.
Kubva kuMediterranean kusvika kumazuva ano: echoes inotsungirira
Iberian Peninsula ndiyo yaiva gedhi rekuMadokeroNekuvapo kwamaArabu, ruzivo rwezvinonhuwira rwakabata muSpain; Mazana emakore gare gare, mhando dzakadai saLoewe, Gal, Parera (Varón Dandy), Myrurgia naPuig. Vakavaka indasitiri ine simba iyo nhasi inotumira kunze kwenyika kupasi rose.
Perfumery yemazuva ano yakakura nemamorekuru, mhuri dzinonhuhwirira uye mhando. Kubva pakusimuka kwe synthesis (coumarin) uye iconic Chanel No. Perfume tsika yaisanganisira maitiro, democratization uye kusingadzoreki kusika..
Nhasi, niche, gourmands, oud uye mararamiro anogara pamwe neAI uye kusimba.. Molecular perfumery inovhura palettes isingaperi, nepo kuziva kwezvakatipoteredza uye kugadzirwa kwebhodhoro remagine reimagine umbozha; masangano akadai sePerfume Academy muSpain kubatsira kuparadzira nekuchengetedza tsika iyi.
Perfume muIjipita yekare yaive yakawanda kupfuura kunhuhwirira: yaive mushonga, umbozha, diplomacy, liturgy uye simba.. Kubva kuzvirongo zvearabhasta kusvika kumakoni akanyunguduka pamabiko, kubva parwendo kuenda kuPunt kuenda kumabikirwo mumatemberi, Budiriro iyi yakashandura kunhuwa kuve kuzivikanwa; nhaka yaro inofamba nemuGreece neRoma, inomera munyika yeArab uye ichibudirira kunyange nhasi mubhodhoro rega rega iro, kana ravhurwa, rinodzosera kwatiri mweya unodziya uye unoyera weNairi.