Zvipfeko zveXalapa hazvisi chete seti yemachira uye stitches: ndizvo kuzivikanwa, ndangariro uye kudada Kubva munharaunda yakanyura munhoroondo. Murwendo urwu, tinoongorora zvimedu, matekiniki, uye nyaya dzinoumba runako nezwi rayo, rakazvarwa mumoyo weVeracruz uye richiita nanhasi.
Nekutarisisa kune chipfeko chechikadzi chakabatana neguta guru reVeracruz uye mabiko uye mashandisirwo emazuva ese emapfekero mudunhu, tinoisa mamiriro ayo. mavambo, zvinhu, embroidery uye zvinoreva, pamwe chete nemaoko emhizha anoita kuti zvikwanisike uye nzvimbo dzinogara nhaka yavo. Tichakurudzirawo gakava remunharaunda pamusoro pehuchokwadi hwavo uye nzira iyo nhaka yetsika iyi inoparadzirwa nekuratidzwa.
Mabviro echikadzi Xalapa chipfeko
Kusiyana nemamwe mataundi edunhu, muXalapa dhizaini chaiyo yevakadzi yakatora chimiro chaitsvaga kumiririra akasarudzika edunhu uye, panguva imwe chete, kujairana nemamiriro ekunze anotonhorera iyo inonzwika mune dzimwe mwaka. Ichi chinangwa chinoshanda uye chekufananidzira chakava gwara rekugadzirisa kwayo.
Iyo seti yakatanga kuratidzwa pachena muna 1967, iine ruzivo nemazano akapihwa nevatenzi. Alfonso MedellÃn Zenil y José Luis Melgarejo Vivanco, nhamba dzinotungamirira mukudzidza kweVeracruz's heritage. Hurukuro yavo yekutanga yakaratidza chiitiko chakakosha uye yakavhura nhaurirano yekuti kuzivikanwa kwaXalapa kunofanirwa kupfupikiswa sei kuita zvipfeko.
Kufemerwa kwakatora sekutanga mapfekero evakadzi Jilotepec, dhorobha rakatarisana neguta guru. Kubva pane iyi referensi, mavara, maumbirwo uye kupedzisa zvakasarudzwa izvo zvakamutsa kunaka kwedunhu, nguva dzose neziso kune kunyaradza uye pekugara kwemazuva anotonhora.
Iyo yekutanga sutu yaive nemunhu akapfeka iyo anthropologist Beauregard GarcÃa, uye gare gare chidimbu chakaratidzirwa mu Anthropology Museum yeXalapa, iyo yakasimbisa chimiro chayo sechiratidzo chetsika uye chinhu chekudzidza. Uku kuoneka kwesangano kwakasimbisa kuvepo kwayo mukufungidzira kwenzvimbo.
Peji yacho yakaita basa rakakodzera mukuparadzira Old Xalapa, Analysis uye Maonero, inoumbwa nevanyori vezvakaitika kare veguta, iyo yakabudisa mifananidzo uye ruzivo pamusoro pezvipfeko. Aya mabhuku akakurudzirawo kuparadzirwa kuburikidza nenzira dzekutumira mameseji - kukokwa "kutakura ruzivo muchanza cheruoko rwako" - chiratidzo chekuti sei. zvechinyakare uye zvemazuva ano kugarisana mukufambiswa kwenhaka.
Kubva pakuonekwa kwayo kwekutanga, chikumbiro ichi chakamutsa maonero akapatsanurwa: kune chikamu chehuwandu, kunyangwe dhizaini yakavakirwa pamapfekero chaiwo kubva kuJilotepec neXalapa, mhedzisiro yayo yekupedzisira inoonekwa se kure netsika dzechivanhuKure nokuderedza ukoshi hwayo, gakava racho rakapfumisa kurukurirano yavose pamusoro pezvatinoreva nouchokwadi nokumiririrwa kwetsika.
Zvinhu uye zvinoreva chipfeko
Pamwoyo we ensemble yevakadzi tinowana siketi ye toni kofi yakasvibaSarudzo yeruvara iyi haina tsaona: vadzidzisi nevatsvaguri vakabatanidza ruvara nerwo rweceramic inozivikanwa seTres Picos, kubva munguva yekupedzisira, chirevo chinosimbisa chipfeko mutsika yenzvimbo.
Pamapfudzi anozorora the quexquémitl, chipfeko chemufananidzo kubva kuMesoamerica. Iyo Xalapa vhezheni inoratidzira machira machira ane akarukwa snail motifs. orenji, tsvuku uye cherry, musanganiswa unopa kusiyana uye rhythm yekuona kune yose, apo inoreva zviratidzo zvekuwanda uye kufamba.
La bhandi rebvudzi uye bhandi - rakarukwa muJilotepec - rinowedzera kubatana kwenzvimbo kune chidimbu, kugadzira hukama pakati penharaunda dzakavakidzana kuburikidza nehunyanzvi hwekugovana uye kupera. Iyi nhaurirano yedunhu, inoonekwa muwarp uye weft, chikamu chakakosha chekukosha kwayo kwetsika.
Iyo shangu, kune rumwe rutivi, inobva Naolinco, taundi rine mukurumbira wokugadzira shangu. Mabviro aya anosimbisa network yezvitengesi zvinouya pamwechete mukupfeka uye zvinosimbisa mapfekero echinyakare anobatanidza mipiro kubva kumataundi akati wandei, rimwe nerimwe riine raro. specialized masters degree.
Kana tikatyora chidimbu chose pasi, dudziro inojeka: ruvara, chiratidzo, uye zvinoshandiswa zvinopindirana kugadzira nyaya yekuve. Saka, chimwe nechimwe chinhu-skirt, quexquémitl, sash, ribhoni, uye shangu-chinobatsira chikamu che zvinoreva uye basa iyo, seyose, inopa hunhu.
- Siketi yakasviba yakasviba, chromatic evocation yemakona matatu emakeramiki.
- Quexquémitl ine hozhwa dzakarukwa dzeorenji, tsvuku uye cherry.
- Sash uye bhandi rebvudzi rakagadzirwa muJilotepeque.
- Nechinyakare kugadzirwa shangu kubva Naolinco.
Veracruz zvipfeko mumamiriro ezvinhu
Kuti unzwisise zviri nani iyo Xalapa costume, zviri nani kuiisa mukati me Veracruz zvipfeko wider. Pamhemberero, vakadzi vazhinji vanopfeka tulle masiketi machena akarukwa nawo taura, maitiro ekupenya maitiro anobvumira kuti satin jira petticoat ionekwe mumavara akajeka, kugadzira kutamba kwepachena kunofarirwa zvikuru pamapati nekutamba.
Avo vanoramba vakatendeseka kutsika vanotomenda jasi ravo naro gumbeze kubva muchiuno kusvika kumucheto wemukati, neshiri dzakachinjika nemaruva anonongedza pasi petambo. Ichi chenjedzo uye chiito chemoyo murefu chinopa a nyaya yepedyo kune chipfeko: chishongo chakachengeterwa avo vanotarisa zvakanyatsonaka uye vanoziva mutauro wemucheka.
Muhupenyu hwezuva nezuva, masiketi akareruka akagadzirwa negumbeze kana artÃcela akajairika, akaiswa pairi tucks (matete madiki anowedzera muviri uye drape). Iyi chiyero pakati pemafaro uye yemazuva ese inovimbisa kuita kwakasiyana uye kuenderera kwekushandisa, kuchengetedza yechinyakare aesthetic munzvimbo dzakasiyana dzehupenyu.
Iyo blouse kana hembe inogona kuve yakashongedzwa nemaruva mukati nongedzera kune zvakapfuura kana kuyambuka, kana kupa maoko mapfupi akagadzirwa nemapuranga. Hapanawo kushomeka kwe nguwo dzakarukwa (crochet), iyo inowedzera magadzirirwo uye manzwiro emaoko kune chipfeko, kubatanidza masiketi nemaapuroni zvichienderana nechiitiko.
Chinhu chinosiyanisa chidimbu chine sikweya chejira reartÃcela chinovhara chipfuva—chinozivikanwa se sikavha-: migumo miviri yakasungirirwa pamutsipa wemutsipa, asi mamwe maviri akaiswa pasi pebhanhire rechiuno. Pamhemberero, machira machena anoonekwawo, ayo anopa kupenya kumeso nepamuviri.
Muhupenyu hwezuva nezuva, hazvishamisi kuti vakadzi vapfeke mapuroni. taura kana calico, zvidimbu zvinoshanda zvinodzivirira zvipfeko uye, panguva imwechete, zvinowedzera ruvara uye muenzaniso kune chipfeko. Iyo apron, inozvininipisa asi inoratidzira, inoshanda sekutsigira kwekuzivikanwa uye basa remumba.
El quechquémel -musiyano wequexquémitl-inoumbwa nemarectangles maviri e white organdy akarukwa ne artÃcela yeruvara rumwe chete, akapedzwa ne olan Tulle, zvakare yakashongedzwa nemuchena. Mutsipa unowanzo ratidza tambo yakanaka, inopenya lace, tsanangudzo inosimbisa silhouette uye inowedzera kubata kwekunaka kwakadzivirirwa.
Kune zvakare a tsika pakati pevakadzi veTotonac: Havapfeki quechquémel zvakananga, asi zviri nani kuiisa pairi musana, wakakotama mugonyo, sekunge shawl. Icho chidimbu nokudaro chinova cape uye chiratidzo, zvichiratidza nzira yakasarudzika yekupfeka zvipfeko zvechinyakare.
Kana iri hairstyle, tsika ye bvudzi refu mumarukwa maviri izvo zvinowira pasi nemusana. Iwo matipi anodzoserwa kumusoro uye akasungirirwa kuseri kwenzeve, rondedzero inotsikirira kurongeka, aesthetics, uye kuenderera kwemaitiro anopfuudzwa kubva kuchizvarwa kuenda kune chimwe chizvarwa.
Zvipfeko zvevarume: kucheka, machira uye zvishandiso
Zvipfeko zvevarume zvinoratidzwa nezvayo kunyaradza uye kupamhamaIyo chena poplin, mabhegi mabhegi anosvika pachitsiko uye akaiswa tambo yekudhonza; ihanzu yakagadzirirwa kushanda uye kufamba, isingaremi uye inogara kwenguva refu yemamiriro ekunze eVeracruz.
Iyo shati inoratidzira yakakura square collar uye yakasununguka fit. Mabhatani akawanda akamira kumashure. folds, iyo inoita kuti jira rinorembera uye rionekwe kwenguva refu pasi, rinofambisa kufamba uye richipa kutarisa kwakasiyana.
Sleeve rinotanga masendimita gumi pasi pebendekete, rakafara uye rinopera mu a yakakwirira, chibhakera nhete, musanganiswa unopa nyaradzo pasina kurasikirwa nemitsetse yayo yakachena. Ichi chimiro chinoratidza hungwaru kugadzirisa kune zvinodiwa zvebasa nekurarama.
Sutu yevarume inopedzwa nemahengechefu: imwe yakaputirwa pamutsipa uye imwe inobuda muhomwe yechipfuva. Vanopinda donje dzvuku -yakapfava uye yechinyakare-uye zvakare inyanzvi, ine ruvara rwakanyanya uye ine maruva embroide. Hazvisi zvekushongedza chete: zvinopa dziviriro, zvinoshanda, uye kubata kweruvara kunoenzanisa zvese.
Nhaka, gakava uye kuparadzirwa kwemazuva ano
Kuti sutu inomutsa nhaurirano, pachayo, chiratidzo che hutano hwemagariroMuXalapa, manzwi ekuti uye achipokana avepo kubva muna 1967: vamwe vanopemberera kuumbwa nekuzivikanwa; vamwe vanodaidzira kuomerera kukuru kumuitiro wenhau weJilotepec neguta guru. Pakati, pane kubvumirana: kudiwa kwekunyora, kuteerera, uye kuenderera mberi nekutsvakurudza.
Kuratidzwa kwechipfeko mu Anthropology Museum yeXalapa inobatsira kuichengetedza nekuitaura zvine hukasha, nepo zvinyorwa zvehunyanzvi - zvakaita saXalapa Antiguo, zvinosimudzirwa nevanyori venhoroondo dzenzvimbo - chengetedza hurukuro. Huwandu hwezviratidziro uye mapeji, ezvinyorwa uye zvipupuriro, zvinoita kuti zvipfeko izvi zvive mupenyu.
Uye hatigone kufuratira kusvika kwenyaya idzi kune vateereri vatsva kuburikidza nekutumira mameseji uye magariro enhau: kukokwa kuti uwane ruzivo kubva kunharembozha uye kugovera mafoto kwakawedzera kusvika kwavo. Saka, tsika inodudzirwa zvakare pasina kutyora, kutora mafomati emazuva ano kuti ramba uchinzwikwa.
Dambudziko riripo nderekuenzanisa kuvimbika kune kushandiswa kwenzvimbo nekugona mufananidzo wekufananidzira kuti micherechedzo yevagari vemo inoda. Mukati meiyi makakatanwa ekugadzira, mhizha, vaongorori, uye masangano anofamba, achiruka kubvumirana kunoremekedza kusiyana kwemaitiro uye ndangariro.
Commerce uye hupenyu hwemazuva ese: kupi kwekubatana nehunyanzvi
Zvipfeko zvechinyakare hazvigare mumamyuziyamu chete: zvinorovawo muzvitoro izvo vanopfeka seMexico Mazuva ese. MuXalapa, semuenzaniso, El Girasol Jewelry, Clothing and Crafts—bazi reSan José—inosimbisa mamendirwo, madhizaini, uye zvidimbu zvakagadzirwa nemaoko zvinotibatanidza nemidzi yedu.
Kupfeka fashoni yeMexican ndeye, sekurangarira kwayo vanosimudzira, takura chikamu chenhoroondo netsika yenyika. Imwe neimwe musono inotaura nyaya, chipfeko chega chega chinopemberera ndima: chiratidzo chekudada chinokukoka iwe kuti ubatanidze machira aya muwadhiropu yako neruremekedzo uye neruzivo.
Chero ani anoda kuuya anogona kunakidzwa nenzvimbo yepakati: Illustrious Xalapeños 136, nhanho chete kubva kuSan José Church uye padyo neCoffeeout. Maawa okuvhura anowanika pakati pevhiki nekupera kwevhiki—Muvhuro kusvika Mugovera kubva na10:00 a.m. kusvika na19:00 p.m.; Svondo kubva na11:00 a.m. kusvika 18:00 p.m.-uye nhamba yefoni yerunhare ndi 22 84 76 52 73.
Kupfuura muenzaniso uyu, jira rekutengesa remunharaunda rinoshanda sebhiriji pakati maworkshops uye vagari venyika: Inopa nzvimbo yekugadzira micheka, inopa mazano pamusoro pehukuru uye musanganiswa, uye inokurudzira kusarudzwa kwezvidimbu zvine nhoroondo, kukurudzira kutenga kunotsigira hupfumi hwemhizha.
Kuonekwa muchitoro kunowedzerwa nemavara uye mishandirapamwe inosimbisa iyo Mexican kudada uye kukosha kwekushongedza. Iyi fungidziro yekutaura — kana yaitwa nekunzwa uye nechikwereti kune vanogadzira — inobatsira vanhu vazhinji kuwana akakodzera matekiniki, zvigadzirwa, uye nehanya kuitira kuti zvipfeko zvigare uye zviite. nhaka.
Zvipfeko muXalapa zvinopindirana nemaitiro ezvakaitika kare, nharo pamusoro pehuchokwadi, uye maitiro emazuva ano ekupararira uye kutengeserana. Kubva pakadzika yakadzika yejasi rakafuridzirwa nehutatu-makona ehari kusvika kune chena kupenya kwe artÃcela mumucheka uye quechquémeles; kubva pamabhurukwa echirume ane machira ane mavara ane mavara kusvika kune akarukwa mafundo kuseri kwenzeve; kubva kumashopu eJilotepec naNaolinco kuenda kudzimba dzeAnthropology Museum: zvese zvinogadzira mepu uko. tsika nezvazvino Vanobatana maoko uye vanopfekedza nharaunda ine chirevo uye runako.
