Fashoni yeMoroccan inzvimbo ine tsika, mamiriro ekunze, uye mhizha, uye uko musono wega wega unotakura zvinoreva tsika. Murwendo urwu kuburikidza nembatya dzeMoroccan, tinoongorora zvese kubva kune zvipfeko zvemazuva ese kusvika kune zvipfeko zvemazuva ese zvichiri kuonekwa mumedinas uye souks, pasina kukanganwa kuchinjika kwayo kuguta razvino uye zvinodikanwa zverenje. Zvipfeko zvechinyakare zveMoroccan zvichiri zvipenyu nekuti zvinobatsira, zvakanaka uye zvinomiririra zvakadzika zvekuzivikanwa..
Kunze kwekunaka kwayo, zvipfeko zveMoroccan zvinoratidza nzvimbo yakanyanyisa uye karenda yakapfuma yemhemberero: michato, mitambo yechitendero, uye mabiko apo kubwinya kwekaftan kana kuzvidzora kwe djellaba kunotaura zvakawanda. Machira emhando yepamusoro, embroidery yakangwara, mavara ekufananidzira uye makodhi ekuzvininipisa kugadzira a textile language kuti vashanyi vanogona kunzwisisa uye kunakidzwa nemakiyi mashoma.
Guta nenyika yekumaruwa: kurova kwemoyo kuviri kwetsika imwe chete
MuMorocco, nzira mbiri dzekunzwisisa zvipfeko dzinogara: iyo yemaguta uye iyo yemisha nemakomo. Mumaguta, zvipfeko zvine chidimbu cheArabized zvakanyanya., nekurukwa kwakanatswa uye kurukwa, uye kushandiswa kwakatanhamara mune zvechitendero kana zvemhemberero. Muhupenyu hwemazuva ese hwemudhorobha, kunyanya pakati pevechidiki, zvipfeko zvekuMadokero zvinogara nezvimedu zvechinyakare uye midziyo yakagadzirwa nemaoko.
Mumaruwa nenzvimbo dzeBerber (Rif, Atlas, Sahara nharaunda), tsika inoonekwa mazuva ese: Izvo zvipfeko zvinonyanya kushanda uye zvakagadziriswa kumamiriro ekunze, ine mavara anopenya uye zviwanikwa zvakaita sengowani dzekudzivirira kubva kuzuva kana kutonhora. Iyo yegoridhe uye zvinhu zvinorembera pazvipfeko zvevakadzi zvepamutemo zvinowedzera kubatwa kwefestive, kunyangwe ne zvidimbu zvesimbi uye sequins yehunhu hwakakurumbira.
Zvakajairika kuti makushe makushe atonge munzvimbo dzemakomo, uku Makotoni akareruka uye sirika anozivikanwa munzvimbo dzinodziyaIyi dichotomy inotsanangura kuti sei chipfeko chimwe chete ichichinja zvachose chimiro chayo zvichienderana nekuti chakapfekwa kupi uye rinhi.
Kana iwe uchifarira chimiro chetsika, pane mabasa anoratidza hukama pakati pehumhizha nehupenyu hwemazuva ese. Iyi firimu "The Blue Caftan" (Maryam Touzani, 2022) inotarisa zvakanyanya munyika ino yemusangano uye hunyanzvi hunoenderera. Cinema inoshandawo sefafitera mune zveMoroccan textile trades..
Zvipfeko zvevakadzi: caftan, takchita uye djellaba
Fesheni yevakadzi vekuMoroccan inofanana nekupenya, ruvara, uye hunyanzvi hwekugadzira hunogona kusanganisira maawa akawanda ehunyanzvi. Vakadzi vanoisa mari muzvimedu zvemhando yepamusoro pazviitiko zvakakosha., uye hakusi kwechienzi kuahanda nokuda kwemichato kana kuti mhemberero dzechitendero kana bhajeti iri shoma.
Caftan (kana kaftan). Zvichida zvipfeko zvinomiririra zvakanyanya: dhirezi rakasununguka, rine maoko marefu, rakareba pamakumbo uye kazhinji inogadzirwa nesirika kana mamwe machira akanaka. Kune shanduro dzakareruka dzakadhindwa uye dzimwe dzakarukwa neshinda dzesimbi uye rhinestones. Mabviro ayo akabatana nePersia, uye mushure mekuwedzera kweArab, yakadzika midzi muMorocco, kutanga kudare uyezve munharaunda yese. Iyo yepamusoro-yekupedzisira caftan inowanzova basa revashandi vekugadzira.
Takchita. Inoenderana necaftan, inosiyaniswa nekuti Inoumbwa nezvidimbu zviviri (kana kupfuura).: hwaro (tahtiya), yakapfava, uye chipfeko chakanyanyisa (fouqia o dfina) nekudonha kwakafara uye siketi ine rupo, yakagadziriswa nebhandi (mdamma) zvinogona kubatanidza goridhe, sirivha kana shinda dzematomboNdiyo sarudzo yakakwana yemhemberero uye mhemberero huru.
Djellaba kana mukadzi djellaba. Kunyangwe iyo hood yakabatana neyechirume vhezheni, Vakadzi vanopfekawo zvakasiyana-siyana zve djellaba. Zvekupfeka zvemazuva ese, zvine kana pasina hood, yakagadzirwa nekotoni isingaremi yekudziya kana mvere dzemwedzi inotonhora. Chipfeko chinoshanda uye chine mwero chinoshanda sechinhu chemazuva ese.
Pazviitiko zvakakosha, kunze kwezvipfeko, vakadzi vazhinji vanoshongedza maoko avo netsoka ne henna. Henna inopedza kutarisa kwemhemberero uye ine chirevo chekufananidzira., kunyanya pamichato nemisi inokosha mukarenda yechiMuslim.
Zvipfeko zvevarume: djellaba, jabador, gandoura uye fez
Zvipfeko zvechivanhu zvechirume zvinogovana kuravira kune zvakadzama, asi zvinowanzove zvakapusa. Iyo protagonist ndiye male djellabaYakareba uye yakasununguka, ine hood yakanongedza, inowanzopfekwa sejasi pamusoro pezvipfeko zvenguva dzose. Mumamiriro okunze anodziya, donje inosarudzwa; mumamiriro okunze anotonhora, makushe anowedzera huremu.
El jabador Yakave yakafanana neyemazuva ano chipfeko chemanheru. Inoumbwa nezvikamu zviviri zvikuru: bhurugwa uye nguo (dzimwe nguva nejasi rakareruka) uye rakashongedzwa neakarukwa, machira, uye bhiza. Inonyanya kufarirwa pamhemberero nerubhabhatidzo, uye inofarirwa nekuda kwezvose zviri zviviri kukwezva kwayo uye kunyaradza kwayo. Inobvumira kuenzana pakati petsika nemazuva ano.
La gandoura Ijasi risina maoko kana remaoko mapfupi, rakasununguka uye rinotonhorera, rinobatsira zvakanyanya pakupfeka kwemazuva ese uye kupisa kwekunze. Mune manyorerwo akareruka, ndiyo yakanakira mufambidzani wezhizha refu. Kureruka kwayo kunoita kuti ive chidimbu chakakosha muwadhiropu yako..
Fez kana tarbush. Iyi ndiyo crimson cap yakakurumbira ine muchekechera nhema, ine korona yakati sandara uye chimiro chekoni chakadimburwa, chakabatana neguta reFez uye chakagamuchirwa mune dzimwe tsika dzechiArab sechiratidzo chekusiyanisa. Icho chimwe chezviratidzo zvinonyanya kuzivikanwa zvechinyakare Moroccan zvipfeko zvevarume.
Shangu uye zvishongedzo: slippers, shangu uye zvishongo
Slippers. Chiratidzo chenyika, ivo zvigunwe zvakanongedza, zvitsitsinho zvakavhurika zvematehwe, kuvarume nevakadzi, vari kwose kwose mumhemberero uye muupenyu hwezuva nezuva. Ivo vanouya mune yechinyakare yero uye mune yese palette; varipowo Berber akasiyana ane sikweya kana yakatenderedzwa zano kunharaunda dzekumaruwa.
Sandals. Ndivo nzira yakajairika mumamiriro emudhorobha uye mamiriro ekunze anodziya, kunyanya kuvakadzi. Iwo akagadzirwa nematehwe, ane zvishongo zvishoma pane slippers, kunyangwe anogona kubatanidza. goridhe nesirivha kuvharwa kana appliqués zvinopa kupenya pasina kuwandisa.
Bhandi mdammaMu takchita, bhanhire ndiro chikamu chepakati chechipfeko uye chinogona kugadzirwa nesilika, simbi yakagadzirwa, kana musanganiswa wezvose. Pamusoro pekupa snug fit, inopa hierarchy uye inoyevedza kupera. kune gala female silhouette.
Musoro uye zvishongo. Zvakajairika mumaruwa uye Berber marongero. ngowani dzevarume nevakadzi, dzimwe nguva nematehwe kana zvinhu zvinorembera. Zvishongo zvesimbi mumhando yezvidzitiro zvechipfuva kana misoro ndeyekuwedzera kunoshamisa kune zvipfeko zvepati. Zvishongo zvevanhu zvinowedzera mavara uye ruzha kune chipfeko.
Micheka, mwaka uye kusimba
Kusarudza jira ndicho chinhu chikuru chekunyaradza. Muchirimo nechirimo, vanotonga zvikuru. rineni nekotoniHuremu, kufema, uye nyore kukwenya. Linen inewo thermoregulatory properties; donje, kana risina kunyanya kukora, rinoshanda zvakanaka mukupisa. Idzi shinda dzemusikirwo dzinobvumira mhepo kutenderera.
Kwematsutso nechando vanouya kuzotamba mvere dzemakwai, cashmere uye velvet, iyo inochengetedza kupisa uye inowedzera kutarisa kwezvipfeko zvepamutemo. Satin kana velvet mu kaftans uye capes inowedzera nyaradzo pamazuva anotonhora. Kunyange zvazvo vasingafemeki, vanobatana pakurwisa kutonhora..
Machira ekugadzira (akadai semamwe mapolyester) anogona kupa kupenya uye kusimba, asi munzvimbo dzinopisa. Vanounganidza tembiricha kana huremu hwakakwiriraMuzvipfeko zvezuva nezuva, mafibhi echisikigo anoita mutsauko mukunzwa kwekushisa mukati mezuva rose. Sarudzo yehuremu uye lining inoshandura zvachose ruzivo rwemushandisi..
Mumusika wemazuva ano, mamwe mashopu uye mhando dzinobatanidza maitiro ekusimudzira, kusanganisira Zvinhu zvakadzokororwa zvine zvitupa zvakaita seGlobal Recycled Standard (GRS)Iyi chiyero inosimbisa zvakadzokororwa zvemukati uye kutevedzera zvemagariro, zvakatipoteredza, uye makemikari zvinodiwa mukati meseti yekugovera. Kana iwe uchinetsekana nemhedzisiro, tsvaga mareferensi kune anozivikanwa mavara Mune chitaridzi.
Mamiriro ekunze uye gwenga sevagadziri vakanyarara
Morocco inotarisana nemamiriro ekunze mosaic: Mediterranean kuchamhembe, kondinendi mukati uye gwenga kumaodzanyemba pedyo neSaharaZvipfeko zvechinyakare zvakashanduka kuti zvidzivirire kubva pakupisa kwezuva uye kutonhora kwehusiku, ne nguo refu dzinovhara ganda uye bvumira kufefetedza.
Iyo djellaba uye caftan, pamusoro pekuve yakashongedzwa, inoita sechipingamupinyi kurwisa radiation nejecha. Pamahombekombe ane mwero, machira anova akareruka; mumakomo, makushe anokunda. Basa uye zvakatipoteredza kutonga pamusoro pechimiro, uye ndicho chikonzero chekucheka kwakafanana kunogona kutaridzika zvakasiyana muTangier, Marrakech kana kumaodzanyemba kweSahara.
Mavara uye embroidery: makodhi anooneka
Ruvara harisi masanga: magirini akabatana nemweyaZvitsvuku negoridhe zvinomiririra kubudirira uye chimiro, uye blues echo kuchengetedza uye kutsva. Zvechokwadi, izvi zvinofambidzana nemafashoni uye kuravira kwemunhu, asi toni dzakasimba chiratidzo cheimba. Musiyano wechromatic unoratidza basa rekushongedza.
Metallic embroidery, shinda dzesirika, trimmings, uye lace yakagadzirwa nemaoko zvinotsanangura zvechinyakare haute couture. Pamichato nezviitiko zvikuru, kupenya kunowedzerwa, uku Kwekushandiswa kwezuva nezuva, mamwe madhizaini akasarudzika anosarudzwa.Hunhu hwekushongedza hunowanzo chiyero chemhando yenguo. Ruoko rwemhizha runooneka mumisono yese..
Mitemo yezvipfeko zvevashanyi
Semufambi, hapana kodhi yakaoma, asi kuzvininipisa kunokosheswa: dzivisa zvipfeko zvinobata zvakanyanya kana zvakanyanyopfupika, kunyanya mumagariro kana kumaruwa. Mumaguta akaita seCasablanca kana Marrakech, maitiro akazaruka, asi zvakakosha kuti uchinje chipfeko chako kuti chienderane nenzvimbo uye chiitiko. Chinokosha kuremekedza uye kunyaradzwa.
Misikiti nenzvimbo dzechitendero. Kana yakavhurika kune vasiri maMuslim, zvinokurudzirwa kuti vakadzi Fukidza mapepa ako nemutsipa uye sarudza siketi kana bhurukwa refu.; mune dzimwe nzvimbo, kuvhara bvudzi kuchadiwa. Varume vanofanirawo kupfeka zvine mwero. Skafu yakareruka mubhegi rako inogadzirisa akawanda mamiriro.
Fashoni yemudhorobha uye sarudzo yemunhu. Iyo hijab isarudzo yega yega yevakadzi vazhinji, inoenderana nemaitiro emazuva ano: uchaona machira ane chiuru chemavara uye anodhinda yakasanganiswa nejeans, midi masiketi, kana sneakers. Iko kusanganiswa kwetsika uye zvemazuva ano chikamu chekutaridzika. Maguta eMoroccan zviratidziro zve stylistic fusion.
Kupfeka mazano kune vafambi: zhizha nechando
Kwezhizha muChefchaouen. A rakapfeka lace nguo (kana gauze) inosimudzira "blue city" mamiriro ekunze pasina kupisa; zviri nani kudzivirira bhuruu kuti usasanganise kumashure mumifananidzo. Kureruka kwejira kunoita mutsauko pamateru eMedina.
Shanyira kumamosque. A jira dema rakareruka rine sikavha Kubheja kwakachengeteka. Zadzisa neshangu dzakapfava uye mhete dzakangwara. Sarudza donje rakanaka kana mucheka kuti udzivise kupisa. Kupfeka zvine mwero hakupesani nekutsvinda..
Southern Sahara uye gwenga. A refu dzvuku chipfeko chesilika Inosiyanisa zvinoshamisa nemadutu uye masaisai mumhepo mumifananidzo. Sunscreen masikati, uye kana zuva ranyura, inowedzera shawl kana gumbeze rakareruka yekudonha kwekushisa. Skafu yechiArab inowanza mikana yemifananidzo. Chiedza uye zvakasiyana-siyana maseru achachengetedza chirongwa chako.
Urban yechando. Combine jena chena turtleneck + mugero jasi + scarf tsvuku ne jeans; inoshanda uye photogenic. Pamazuva anotonhora, a jasi re cashmere pamusoro rakarukwa blouse uye siketi refu ine pleated (pamwe neberet uye mabhutsu matema) inopa chitarisiko chekare chakakwana kumaguta enhoroondo. Elegance uye kudziya zvinogona kufambidzana.
Mamwe mazano echando chakapfava. A jira rakarukwa nejasi remvere refu uye sikavha inokuchengeta uchidziya mumapani emahombekombe. Kana iwe uchida dynamism, hoodie uye sweatpants Nemateki uye bhegi, haakundike kufamba achitenderera Medinas kwemaawa nemaawa. Comfort inowedzera simba rako rekufamba.
Kwaunotenga uye ruzivo rwemhizha
Kana iwe uchitsvaga Berber chokwadi, tarisa maguta nemaguta ane tsika dzemhizha: Chefchaouen muRif, Rissani munzvimbo yeSahara, kana mataundi ari muAtlas akadai saImilchil. The misika yevhiki nevhiki Iwo makirasi akavhurika zvechokwadi nezve machira, madhayi uye mashandisiro, ane hunhu hwakasiyana asi mamiriro echokwadi.
Mumaguta makuru, kuwedzera kune souks, iwe uchawana maworkshops nemaboutiques anorenda kana kutengesa caftan uye takchitas Zvezviitiko zvakakosha. Bvunza nezvebasa retsika uye kwakabva murukwa: uko kune hunyanzvi, pane nhoroondo. Kutsigira musangano wepanzvimbo zvinoreva kutora chikamu chenyika newe..
Kusimuka kwedhizaini yemazuva ano kwakaona zvimedu zvakaita sejabador zvinogara pamwe nezvipo zvemazuva ano munzira yekumhanya. Pamharadzano iyi, zvakajairika Vagadziri vanobatanidza kucheka kwechinyakare uye kupedzisa kwemazuva ano, maitiro anobatsira kuti kutengeserana kurambe kuripo uye kumutsidzira kufarira zvipfeko zvekare. Tsika uye avant-garde zvinofambidzana muMorocco.
Zvipfeko zveMoroccan ibhiriji pakati pemamiriro ekunze, tsika uye kutengeserana, uye gwara rinoshanda remufambi anoda kuziva. Kubva ku kunaka kwe caftan uye takchita kusvikira kushanda kwe djellaba, achipfuura masiripi, madamma mabhande, ngowani nezvishongo, zvese zvinoumba mepu yetsika yakakodzera kuongororwa nekukurumidza. Nekuziva machira, macode ekuzvininipisa, uye nzvimbo dzakanakisa dzekutenga, hauzongopfeka zvine ruremekedzo chete: Iwe unozonzwisisa zviri nani mweya weMorocco.