Mafashoni eSpanish Golden Age anosiya mabhuku enhoroondo achienderera mberi, chidimbu nechidimbu, muhoro dze Cervantes Birthplace Museum muAlcalá de HenaresAchitariswa nemunyori weSpanish anonyanya kuzivikanwa nevanhu vose, mushanyi anogona kuona mapfekero evanhu munguva yake, kubva kuvakuru vakuru kusvika kumabasa epamusoro-soro.
Chiratidziro "Nejasi nebakatwa. Mafashoni munguva yaCervantes" Inopa ruzivo rwakadzama muzvipfeko zvemuzana remakore rechi16 nerechi17, ichisanganisa zvipfeko zvepakutanga, magwaro, mabhuku, maprinti, uye mitambo yemitambo, opera, nemafirimu. Zvese izvi hazvibhadhariswi uye zvine chinangwa chakajeka: kuratidza kuti zvipfeko zvemunguva yaMiguel de Cervantes zvichiripo zvakanyanya mukufungidzira kwevanhu vose uye zvichiri kuramba zviri sosi ine simba yekukurudzira.
Chiratidziro chekudzokera kuGolden Age panzvimbo yekuzvarwa kwaCervantes
Kuratidzwa uku kunogona kushanyirwa pa Cervantes Nzvimbo Yekuzvarwa MuseumIri paCalle Mayor muAlcalá de Henares, guta reMadrid rakaziviswa kuti ndiro World Heritage Site, kuratidzwa uku kuchave kwakavhurirwa veruzhinji kubva musi wa15 Kubvumbi kusvika 30 Nyamavhuvhu. Kupinda hakubhadharwi kusvika vanhu vasvika, zvichiita kuti ive sarudzo yetsika inodhura kune vashanyi veguta.
Inotyairwa na Nharaunda yeMadrid Chiratidziro ichi, chakarongwa nenyanzvi yezvekupfeka Raquel Sánchez Acedo, chinobatanidza zvidimbu nezviratidzo zvinobvumira mufananidzo wezvinoonekwa wenguva yeGoridhe. Maitiro acho haasi ekungoratidza zvinhu muzviratidzwa chete, asi anovaka rwendo rwemusoro runokoka vashanyi kuti vanzwisise mafashoni semutauro wemagariro evanhu, runako, uye wekunyora.
Musoro wenyaya, "Nejasi nebakatwa"Inoreva nyika yehushingi netsika yekukudzwa, pamwe nemufananidzo watinowanzo batanidza neGolden Age Spain. Nguo, minondo, maruff, uye fartingales dzakafara zvinova nzira dzekupinda munguva inozivikanwa nehunyanzvi hwetsika uye masimba akasimba emagariro evanhu.
Zvinoenderana neruzivo rwakapihwa neCervantes Birthplace Museum neCommunity of Madrid, kuratidzwa uku kunofungidzirwa sekuverenga mafashoni munguva yaCervantes, kuchitaura nezve zviyero zvenhoroondo, zvemabhuku uye zvehunyanzvi kupfuura kungotevedzana kwenguva pfupi kwezvipfeko.
Farthingales, ruffs uye doublets: mhando huru dzezvipfeko zveGolden Age
Chimwe chezvinhu zvakakosha pakuratidzwa uku kuongorora mhando dzezvipfeko dzakakurumbira kubva muNguva Yegoridhe. Pakati pezvinhu zvinoratidzwa pane ma "farthingeles" makuru, ma "ruffs" aifukidza chiso, ma "doublets" evarume anobata zvakasimba, ma "jerkins" nema "homwe", zvinhu zvakajairika mufashoni yezana remakore rechi16 nerechi17.
Kuratidzwa uku hakungotarise chete patsika dzakanaka, asi kunopa mhando dzakasiyana dze zvipfeko zvine chekuita nemapoka akasiyana evanhu nemabasaVashanyi vanogona kuwana pfungwa yekuti vanhu vane hunyanzvi, vanhu vane hunyanzvi, mabhurugwa emumaguta, uye mapoka evashandi vaisiyana sei, uye kuti kusiyana uku kwezvipfeko nejira kwairatidza sei zvinzvimbo, mabasa, uye mwero wepfuma.
Kudanwa "Zvipfeko zvechiSpanish"Maitiro akaita kuti zvinhu zvifambe zvakanaka muEurope panguva iyi anewo nzvimbo huru mukuratidzwa kwacho. Rwendo urwu runobatsira kunzwisisa kuti sei maitiro aya akava muenzaniso wepasi rose uye kuti magadzirirwo awo akaomarara, mavara asina kusimba, uye kushandiswa kwezvimwe zvinhu zvakagadzira sei mufananidzo unozivikanwa zvikuru weGolden Age Spain.
Panguva imwe chete, hurukuro yekutsanangura inoratidza zvinhu zvakaramba zvakagadzikana kwemakumi emakore akati wandei nezvimwe zvakachinja nekukurumidza, zvakaita sekuchinja kwehurefu hwesiketi, uwandu hwemaoko, uye kuiswa kwereisi nekushongedza. Maonero aya anotibvumira kutevera kushanduka kwezvimwe zvipfeko uye kuona kuenderera mberi pakati penguva dzakasiyana dzenhoroondo.
Uye chikamu hachina kutsaurirwa kune vakakanganikwa zvipfeko zvevanhu vepasi pasiZvichiwanzofukidzwa nemifananidzo yedare guru, mbatya dziri nyore dzakagadzirwa nezvinhu zvisingadhuri dzinobvumira vashanyi kunzwisisa kuti, kunyangwe mumabasa akaderera, mbatya dzaitaura nezvekuzivikanwa, basa, uye zvinangwa.
Mabhuku nemagwaro: mafashoni senzvimbo yekurondedzera muCervantes
Kushaikwa kwembatya dzepakutanga kubva muzana remakore rechi18 risati rasvika kunotimanikidza kuti titarise kupfuura mawadhiropu akachengetedzwa. Saka, kuratidzwa kwacho kunonyanya kuvimba ne zvinyorwa uye zvinyorwa zvenguva iyoyoPakati pazvo pane basa raMiguel de Cervantes rine nzvimbo huru.
Magwaro emunyori we Quixote Vanoshanda semhando yekabhuku kanotsanangura mafashoni enguva yavo. Chiratidziro ichi chinoongorora kuti mareferensi ezvipfeko anobatsira sei pakutsanangura hunhu hwega hwega: kubva panhumbi dzehondo dzekare dzaDon Quixote uye zvipfeko zvaSancho Panza zvine basa kusvika pakunaka kwemadzimai, varume, uye vanhu vane hunhu hwakanaka vanoonekwa mumabhuku emuenzaniso akadai se Iyo Colloquium yembwa uye mitambo inosetsa.
Maitiro aya anotibvumira kuona zvipfeko kwete chete senyaya yemachira nekucheka, asi senzira yekudzivirira chishandiso chepamusoro chekunyoraMapfekero evanhu anoratidza mafungiro, chinzvimbo munharaunda, zvishuwo kana kunyange kunyengera, uye anobatsira kuvaka hunhu hwevatambi vakuru pasina chikonzero chekutsanangura zvakawanda.
Kuratidzwa uku kunotarisawo pane zviratidzo zvakasiyiwa nevanoziva nezve nzira inogoneka yekupfeka yaCervantes pachakeKunyange hazvo mbatya dzake dzisina kuchengetwa, magwaro neuchapupu hwepanguva iyoyo, pamwe chete nefashoni yaizivikanwa munharaunda yake, zvinotibvumira kunyora mufananidzo une musoro wechitarisiko chake uye mamiriro emagariro aakatamira.
Kuwedzera kune basa raCervantes, rwendo rwacho runosanganisira mabhuku, madhindindi uye magwaro enhoroondo izvo zvinoshanda sechinoonekwa uye chakanyorwa, zvichipa ruzivo pamusoro pekucheka, mapatani, mitemo yenzvimbo dzepasi pevhu uye mashandisirwo ezuva nezuva ezvipfeko muzana remakore rechi16 nerechi17.
Kudzokorora kwenhoroondo, theatre, opera uye firimu: kuti Nguva Yegoridhe inodudzirwa sei patsva
Kupfuura zvinyorwa zvepakutanga nezvinyorwa zvepakutanga, kuratidzwa uku kunoita basa guru kune kudzokororwa kwemazuva ano kwezvipfeko zvenguva yegoridheVashanyi vachawana zvipfeko nezvidhori kubva mumunda wekudzokorora kwezvakaitika kare, operaMitambo nemafirimu, izvo zvinotibvumira kunzwisisa kuti nguva iyoyo inofungidzirwa sei nhasi.
Magadzirirwo aya ezvikuva anoratidza kuti mifananidzo yeGolden Age yakapinda sei mutsika dzekuona, asiwo kuti vagadziri vemazuva ano vanounza sei rusununguko, dudziro, uye mhinduro dzakagadziriswa zvinoenderana nezvinodiwa nekamera kana chikuva. Mugumisiro wacho ihurukuro pakati penyaya dzakaoma uye kuverenga kweunyanzvi hwemazuva ano.
Izvi zvinosanganisira mbatya dzinoshandiswa mu mitambo yemitambo uye mumitambo yemazuva ano yemavhidhiyo. Pakati pemienzaniso yataurwa nesangano pacharo, firimu "Musungwa", inotungamirwa naAlejandro Amenábar, uyo anoshandisa mufananidzo uyu wemakepisi, minondo, madoublet nemaruffs kuvaka mamiriro ake enhoroondo.
Kusangana kwemafashoni ekare neunyanzvi hwemitambo kunotibatsira kunzwisisa kuti zvimwe zvinhu zvewadhiropu yeGolden Age zvave sezvinomiririra sei, kunyangwe kune vateereri vasingazive ruzivo rwezvipfeko. Kepesi, ngowani ine muromo wakafara, masiketi akazara, uye jira rejira zvese chikamu che nyika inoonekwa pamwe chete.
Nekuda kwekusanganiswa uku kwezvipfeko zvepakutanga uye zvemitambo, kuratidzwa uku kunopa maonero epasi rose ezvipfeko panguva iyoyo, zvichiratidza zvese zvinozivikanwa zvechokwadi uye zviri zvezvakavakwa mumazana emakore akazotevera.
Zvishandiso, machira uye zvakaunganidzwa zveCostume Museum zvisati zvaburitswa
Chimwe chezvinhu zvinonyanya kushamisa pakuratidzwa uku kuvapo kwe zvidimbu zvisina kuburitswa Zvinhu izvi, izvo zvisati zvamboratidzwa kune veruzhinji kusvika pari zvino, zvinosanganisira zvishongo zvemusoro, mhando dzakasiyana dzeshangu, zvishongedzo, uye zvishongo, zvichibvumira kuona zvinhu zviri pedyo izvo zvinowanzoonekwa mumifananidzo yenguva iyoyo.
Kuratidzwa uku kunonyanya kutarisisa machira nezvinhu zvakaunza hupenyu hwezvipfeko zveNguva Yegoridhe. Mienzaniso yemicheka yekuruka, madhamask, nemamwe machira akarukwa anoratidzwa, zvichiratidza kupfuma kwezvipfeko zvemumba uye mhinduro dziri nyore dzinoshandiswa nevanhuwo zvavo.
Pasinei nekusasimba kwemachira ekare uye huwandu hushoma hwezvipfeko zvakachengetwa kubva panguva iyoyo, kuratidzwa uku kunobatanidza zvidimbu zvepakutanga kubva ku Musiyamu weZvipfeko. Nzvimbo yekutsvagisa pamusoro peNhaka yeVanhu, inoonekwa seimwe yemiunganidzwa yakakosha muSpain yekudzidza mafashoni ekare nemachira emuzana remakore rechi16 nerechi17.
Mari idzi dzinotibvumira kuratidza maitiro ekugadzira yenguva iyoyo, kubva pakucheka machira kusvika kumasisitimu ekubatanidza, maumbirwo emukati akaita kuti zvipfeko zvive zvakakura, uye matekiniki ekusona anoshandiswa. Maonero ehunyanzvi anobatanidzwa nemamiriro ekare, kuitira kuti mushanyi agone kubatanidza zvinhu nemafomu nekushandiswa kwazvo munharaunda.
Kana zvabatanidzwa, chikamu chino chinosimbisa pfungwa yekuti mafashoni eGolden Age aisangova nyaya yechitarisiko chete, asiwo ye mabasa ehunyanzvi, hunyanzvi hwehunyanzvi uye mawebhusaiti ekutengeserana aiparadzira machira nezvishongo muEurope yese.
Rwendo rwekufamba-famba: kubva kuDare kuenda kumabasa epasi rose
Kusiyana nezvimwe zvirongwa zvinotarisa pakutevedzana kwenguva kwakasimba, "Necape nebakatwa. Mafashoni munguva yaCervantes" anosarudza nzira inoyambukaRwendo urwu rwakarongwa nemisoro nemarudzi ezvipfeko, zvichiita kuti zvive nyore kuenzanisa zvinhu zvakajairika munguva dzakasiyana uye kunzwisisa kuti mamwe mafomu nemashandisirwo zvakaramba zvakafanana kana kuti zvakachinja sei nekufamba kwenguva.
Chimiro ichi chinobvumira veruzhinji kuona Mafashoni edare reMadrid uye zvipfeko zvine chekuita nemabasa epamusoro uye mapoka evanhu. Kubva kuzvipfeko zvemitambo zvakashongedzwa kusvika kuzvipfeko zvebasa zvinoshanda zvakanyanya, kuratidzwa uku kunoratidza kuti zvipfeko zvakaita sei kuti miganhu yevanhu ionekwe.
Dhizaini yekuratidzwa kwezviratidziro inosimbisa kuti mbatya dzemunguva yeGolden Age dzaiva zvinopfuura kungoshongedza chete. chiratidzoZvairatidza kuva nhengo muboka, zvaitsanangura mabasa evanhurume nevanhukadzi uye ebasa, uye muzviitiko zvakawanda zvaidzorwa nemitemo yenzvimbo dzepasi pevhu yaiedza kuderedza humbowo.
Mupfungwa iyi, vashanyi vanogonawo kuziva kuti ndezvipi zvinhu zvakagara zviripo kusvika nhasi, mumutauro wezuva nezuva uye mumufananidzo watinawo weSpain yemakepisi nemapakatwa. Mazhinji emashoko aya, aripo mumafirimu, munhevedzano dzeterevhizheni, uye mumitambo yemitambo, anobva muzvipfeko zvakadzidzwa pano.
Mhedzisiro ndeye Rwendo rwemafashoni ekare ekuSpain izvo zvisingangogumiri kuvanhu vane mukurumbira kana vane mazita makuru, asi zvinosanganisira avo vaisona, vaitengesa kana kungopfeka mbatya idzi muhupenyu hwavo hwezuva nezuva.
Kubva muNguva Yegoridhe kusvika kumakore ekuma1900 uye magadzirirwo emazuva ano
Chikamu chekupedzisira cherwendo urwu chinotarisa pari zvino kuratidza kuti runako rwakakura sei munguva yaCervantes rwakachinja Mafashoni ezana remakore rechi20 uye kusikwa kwemazuva anoKure nekusambova chiyeuchidzo chekare, chimiro chegoridhe chinoramba chichionekwa muzvinhu zvakaunganidzwa nevagadziri vekuEurope.
Pakati pemienzaniso yataurwa pane zvisikwa zve Mariano Fortuny, munhu akakosha mukuvandudzwa kwemagadzirirwo emachira muzana remakore rapfuura, uye mugadziri Flora Villareal, uyo akawana mumapepa, magadzirirwo uye mareferensi epamutemo eGolden Age sosi yekukurudzira mazano aripo iye zvino.
Chikamu chino chinoratidza kuti mamwe matekiniki, akadai semagadzirirwo akarongeka, kushandiswa kwejira, uye kusanganiswa kwemavara akajeka ane mavara asina kutaurwa zvakanaka, anoramba akakosha mune zvemazuva ano. Zvipfeko zvinonzi "zvechiSpanish" zvinoramba zvichishanda se repertoire yerunako iyo inoshandiswa mumitambo ye catwalks, zvipfeko zve opera uye zvipfeko zvemafirimu.
Kukurukurirana pakati pekare neazvino kunotibvumira kunzwisisa kuti mafashoni haasi chinhu chinongoitika chega, asi chinhu shinda inoenderera mberi iyo inobatanidza nguva, hunyanzvi, uye tsika. Muchiitiko ichi, nguva yaCervantes inozviratidza sechitsauko chakaorera zvikuru munyaya iyoyo.
Saka, kuratidzwa uku kunosimbisa kuti mafashoni aCervantes netsika dzeGolden Age zvinoramba zvichikosha mukufungidzira kwevanhu vose, muSpain nemune dzimwe nzvimbo dzekuEurope, uko mufananidzo wezana remakore rechi16 nerechi17 unoramba uchibatanidzwa nemaitiro ekuona anozivikanwa zvikuru.
Kushanya, kuyananisa tsika nemagariro uye ruzivo runoshanda
Kune avo vanoda kunyura zvakadzama munyaya idzi dzese, Cervantes Nzvimbo Yekuzvarwa Museum Yakagadzira chirongwa chekubatsira vanhu vane tsika dzakasiyana-siyana chakagadzirirwa vateereri vese. Kushanya kwemahara kunoitwa panguva dzakatarwa, pasina muripo wekuwedzera uye nekupinda mahara kusvika vanhu vasvika.
Zvinoenderana neruzivo rwakaburitswa nemuseum, misangano iyi inoitika musi wa Chitatu nenguva dza12:00 na13:30and the Chishanu nenguva dza12:00, 13:30 na16:30Kushanya uku kunokutendera kuti ushanyire kuratidzwa uku uchiperekedzwa nevashandi vane hunyanzvi, avo vanobatsira kutsanangura zviri kuitika uye kupindura mibvunzo nezvemazwi, mashandisirwo uye matekiniki emachira.
Kuratidzwa uku kunogona kushanyirwa kubva Chipiri kusvika Svondo pa Cervantes Birthplace Museum, muAlcalá de Henaresnekupinda mahara kusvika Nyamavhuvhu 30. Kunyangwe hazvo kubhuka nguva isati yasvika kusiri kwakakosha kuti usvike mumakamuri, zvinokurudzirwa kusvika nguva ichiripo, kunyanya pakupera kwevhiki kana mazororo, apo huwandu hwevashanyi hunowanzo kuve hwakakwira.
Pamusoro pekuratidzwa kwenguva pfupi, vashanyi vemuseum vanogonawo kuongorora nzvimbo dzakatsaurirwa kuhupenyu nebasa raMiguel de Cervantes, zvichiita kuti kushanya uku kuve mukana wakakwana wekudzidza nezvehupenyu hwake nebasa rake. Mabhuku aCervantes pamwe chete nemamiriro ezvinhu epanguva yacho.
Kuti uwane rumwe ruzivo rwemazuva ano nezvehurongwa hwezviitiko, zvimwe zviitiko kana shanduko dzinogona kuitika muzvirongwa, miziyamu inotumira kune webhusaiti yayo yepamutemo, uko ruzivo rwezvinoitika nezveizvi nezvimwe zvirongwa zvetsika zvinoburitswa.
Chikumbiro chose chinosimbisa kuti mafashoni eNguva Yegoridhe, kwete kungori zvisaririra zvenhoroondo, anoramba achishanda se rabhoritari yepfungwa dzinoonekwa uye nzvimbo yekudzidza yakasarudzika yekunzwisisa nzanga, mabhuku, uye hunyanzvi muSpain neEurope. Mumakamuri eCervantes Birthplace Museum, macapes, minondo, ruffs, uye damasks zvinova chinhu chakajairika chinobvumira vashanyi kutarisa zvakapfuura nemaziso emazuva ano.
