Mumwoyo weLa Paz, nhanho chete kubva kuBasilica yeSan Francisco, inokunda nyika umo zvitsvene zvinogara pamwe chete nemazuva ese uye kutengeserana kunosangana nekutenda. Mumigwagwa yakatetepa iyi, ine matombo anomonereka achikwira nekudzika, inonzi Musika weVaroyi inokwezva vanhu vanoda kuziva uye vakazvipira, vafambi nevagari venzvimbo vachitsvaga zano, mazango, uye zvinopihwa kuna Amai Pasi. Inzvimbo ine mhepo umo chitoro chega chega chine nyaya, uye kupi Pachamama inotora nzvimbo yepakati muhupenyu hwezuva nezuva.
Chero ani anofamba achipfuura nemuLinares, Sagárnaga, Jiménez, Santa Cruz, uye Illampu anowana mavara mazhinji uye anonhuhwirira: kupisa rusenzi, maruva akaomeswa, makenduru, zviumbwa zvemhuka, uye madiki emitambo mapakeji anovimbisa hutano, basa, kana hupfumi. Kupfuura ngano, musika uyu inzvimbo yekugara yeruzivo rwemadzitateguru, inotsigirwa nechifleras, yatiris, uye mhuri dzakapfuudza hunyanzvi hwavo kwezvizvarwa. Uye, kunyange zvazvo zita racho richinzwika, chinhu chinokosha pano hachisi uroyi hwakafanana nefirimu, asi a Andean worldview inoramba ichirova zvakaoma.
Nzvimbo, mamiriro ekunze uye maonerwo ekutanga
Musika weVaroyi uri munzvimbo yenhoroondo yeLa Paz, padyo nePlaza de San Francisco, pakati peLinares Street nenzvimbo yeEl Rosario. Mabhagi ekumashure ane makamera, vagari venzvimbo vanomhanya, uye vashanyi vari kutsvaga kuverenga kwecoca kana tafura yetsika vanopfuura. Zvitauro zvakawaridzwa mumitsara pakati pemahostela, zvitoro zvidiki zvegirosari, maresitorendi, uye shopu dzemabasa emaoko; mhedzisiro yacho inzira yedhorobha yakabatana uko Mushanyi nevemunharaunda vanoenda vakabatana.
Muzvitoro zvakawanda uchaona machira ane Mifananidzo yeAndean, charangos, maracas uye zvimiti zvemvura Kugovana masherufu nemazango, macolognes, nemakenduru. Kunhuhwirira kunochinja nenhano iri yose: palo santo, resin, rusenzi yamavara ose, uye, panhambo nenhambo, utsi hunobva muzvipiriso zvinobatidzwa parutivi pomugwagwa. Hapana kushayikwa kwekushanya kunotungamirwa kunoguma kuCoca Museum, uye hakuna vafambi vanopinda nekungwara vachibuda muzvitoro zvidiki. Iyo nhanho inogara iripo, asi mhepo inochengetedza inononoka cadence inokukoka iwe kuti utarise wakadzikama. bvunza zvine ruremekedzo.
Pamusoro pezvitoro, mumigwagwa iri pedyo mishonga yemishonga inotengeswa, vamwe vaibatanidzwa netsika yeKallawaya, inozivikanwa neruzivo rwayo rwemishonga yemakwenzi uye marapirwo echisikigo. Mushonga wechinyakare uyu unozadzisa huwandu hwemusika: pamwe nemaamulets uye tsika dzinotapira, bouquets, balms uye infusions zvinoonekwa iyo inoshandiswa nevanhu kune zvirwere zvezuva nezuva. Nokudaro, kushanya kunogona kuchinjwa kuva rwendo ruduku rwe ethnobotanical uko Chirimwa chimwe nechimwe chine nyaya yacho uye kushandiswa kwayo kwetsika.
Nhoroondo uye kuzivikanwa kwetsika
Musika uyu wakatanga munguva dzevapambepfumi, apo kwaitova nevatengesi vemiti — ma<em>chiflera — vachibatsira vatengi vaikumbira mishonga nezvinhu zvekupa. Nokufamba kwenguva, nzvimbo iyi yakawana mukurumbira, uye zvinonzi ndivo vafambi pachavo vakatanga kuidana kuti "nzvimbo." Musika wevaroyi. Ichokwadi ndechokuti maitiro anoungana pano ari chikamu chetsika yeAndean isina kumira, uye kuti nhasi yakabatanidzwa muhupenyu hweguta reguta guru. Uyu mavara akasanganiswa, pakati penzvimbo inoera neshowcase, ashandura nharaunda kuita imwe yemifananidzo yeLa Paz.
Muna 2019, maneja weLa Paz akazivisa nzvimbo iyi se Intangible Cultural Heritage yeguta. Musiyano uyu unosimbisa kukosha kwawo senzvimbo yeruzivo uye mipiro yetsika inochengetedza ruzivo rwemadzitateguru nezve zvisikwa uye vanhu. Mukuita, zvinoreva ziva zviri pamutemo kuti kubhadhara, Matafura echivanhu, mishonga yechivanhu, uye basa reamautas uye yatiris chikamu chenhaka yekurarama yaLa Paz. Haisi museum yakaomeswa nechando: inzvimbo inoshandiswa, kupi kutenda netsika zvinoramba zviripo zuva nezuva
Yatiris, kuverenga kwecoca uye moyo wezvipo
Mayatiri—anozivikanwa se‘vaya vanoziva’—anopfuura nepano nokungwarira. Vamwe vanopfeka ngowani dzakasviba, dzinenge dzese dzinotakura dzadzo machira eshinda ane mashizha ekoka, michinjikwa, menduru kana zvimwe zvinhu zvekufananidzira. Vazhinji vakadzidza kubva kuvakuru vavo, uye mune dzimwe nyaya, kune avo vanoti vakarohwa nemheni kana kuti vakadaidzwa nezviratidzo kuti vatange nzira iyi. Vanoremekedzwa nekuti vanodzivirira nekuraira nharaunda, vanoita kuchenesa, vanopa gwara pamusoro pezvipo, uye kugona kuverenga shizha rekoka.
Kuverenga kunoitwa pagumbeze kana patafura. Iyo yatiri inokanda mapeji uye inocherechedza nzvimbo yavo uye kuswedera pedyo kuti vapindure mibvunzo chaiyo: basa, rudo, hutano, kufamba. Kazhinji pane munhu ari pedyo naye. mbariro panopisirwa matafura emitambo; Mapakeji akanyatsogadzirwa anosanganisira masiwiti mumhando dzedzimba kana moyo, makushe, michero yakaomeswa, resin, maruva, mhodzi, huchi, mafuta emakamelid, uye, mune yakakwana, sulu (camelid fetus). Moto unopedza zvinhu zvose, uye zvichibva pamaitiro emoto, nyanzvi inodudzira zviratidzo. Pakupedzisira, marasha nemadota zvinovigwa, kuvhara kutenderera ne chiratidzo chekutenda kuNyika.
Nyamavhuvhu mwedzi unokosha: zvinonzi Pachamama "inovhura muromo wake" uye inofanira kudyiswa nezvipo. Munguva iyi, kupa kukumbira kudzivirirwa, kubudirira, kana kuenzanisa mumba kunowedzera. Mugore rose, challas uye wajt'as zvinogadzirwawo. — zvipiriso zvinopiswa—, dzimwe nguva zvine chokuita nokutsaurirwa, nzendo, kana kuti nguva dzokuchinja. Panguva yetsika, zvakajairika kunzwa shoko rokuti jallalla, iro rinopfupikisa pfungwa dzetariro, kupemberera, uye rombo rakanaka. Zvinopfuura kuchema: ndizvo a kukumbira kunobatanidza chikumbiro nekutenda.
Pamusoro pekoka, musika unopa kuverenga tarot uye mamwe masevhisi ekuuka. Vamwe vanhu vari kutsvaga mhinduro dzinokurumidza, nepo vamwe vachifarira kutaura kwenguva refu nevatengesi kuti vagadzirise mupiro wakakodzera. Manzwiro akajairika ndeokuti kutenga kwese kune chinangwa chekufananidzira, uye kuti uwane zvakanyanya, zvakakosha kuti unzwisise zvinoreva zvauri kutenga. Naizvozvo, pane kunyunyuta, kuchenjera kuteerera nokukumbira nhungamiro; mushure mezvose, zviri kutengeswa pano hazvisi zvinhu chete, asi nzira dzine chokuita nezvinoera.
Chii chiri kutengeswa: kubva amulet kuenda ku sulu
Matanga ari kufashukira nezvinhu. Makenduru, rusenzi rwechiuru chemavara, palosanto, uye mareni akawanda; zvakare mashura macolognes, rue gels, uye lucky powders, akagadzirirwa kubvisa godo kana kukwezva vatengi. Uchawana mazango akaita sematatya emari, kamba dzeupenyu hurefu, makonikoni ekufamba kwakachengeteka, mazizi anofananidzira uchenjeri, kana kuti pumas kukwezva basa. Hapana kushaikwa kwezvinamato zvakaita semichinjikwa, mhandara dzakavezwa, kana michinjikwa yeAndean, inogarisana nemaketani, zvishongo, uye mhete dzakagadzirwa nemhodzi dzehuayruro. Idaidze syncretic kana muchida; kune vakawanda, i kugarisana kwechisikigo kwezvitendero.
Pakati pezvigadzirwa zvenyeredzi pane mamwe macologne nesipo ane mazita anobata pfungwa: Huya Kwandiri Sipo, Nditevere Nditevere Mudikani, 7 Machos Perfume, Kupisa Husiku, kana Sipo Inotamba Inonakidzwa. Padivi peizvi pane mafuta okuzora anosimbisa anovimbisa simba, makenduru ekunyaradza mwoyo, uye mifananidzo yenamo kuti iite zvitsinga zvorudo; mazita acho haaperi. Aya mafomula anogara pamwe chete neshuga zvidhori kuti "zvitapire" zvinonetsa, llama mvere dzemakwai, madhaga ekufananidzira nemapanga, uye zviridzwa zvechinyakare zvakaita senyere nemacharango. Izvo hazvigoneke kuti usanyemwerekera kune ane mavara madhizaini pane yekurongedza, asi iyo yepasi ndeye yakakomba: chimwe nechimwe chinhu chakagadzirirwa chinangwa chaicho. chinangwa chaicho chetsika.
Uyezve kune sullus: llama, alpaca, kana mamwe makamera emudumbu, ayo ari kushamisa kumuenzi kekutanga. Iwo anoratidzwa akarembera kana mumabhasikiti, muhukuru hwakasiyana uye nhanho dzebudiriro. Basa ravo rakajeka mutsika yeAndean: vanovigwa pasi penheyo dzemba kana bhizinesi kuti vaunze budiriro uye rombo rakanaka, uye dzimwe nguva vanopiswa sezvipiriso zvemunhu. Iyo yakakura kazhinji inochengeterwa kuvaka; diki, yezvikumbiro zvepachivande. Avo vanodzitengesa vanoomerera pakuti dzinobva mukubvisa pamuviri kwoga, vana vasina kurarama mukutonhora kwenzvimbo dzakakwirira, kana kuti zviitiko zvinowanwa mudzimba dzokuurayira; chinangwa ndechokubvisa pfungwa yokuti amai vanobayirwa kuti vawane. Kunyangwe gakava riripo, kuvanhu veko sullu haisi svikiro: i chinhu chakakosha chekuyanana nePasi.
Pamwe chete nezvose zviri pamusoro apa, unogona kuona matatya akaomeswa, tambo dzebvudzi remhuka, hupfu, uye ma<em>elixir emarudzi ose. Vamwe vanhu vanokumbira chimwe chinhu rombo rakanaka kubasa, vamwe vanotsvaga kudzikamisa ziso rakaipa kana kukwezva rudo rwakadzorerwa. Pakati pezvipo zvakawanda, zvinokurudzirwa kuti uvaudze zvaunoda uye uite kuti vakutungamirire. Vatengesi vanowanzobvunza mibvunzo, nyora pasi tsanangudzo, uye vanoisa tafura nemazvo emhizha; vanoziva kuti pasina chinangwa chakajeka uye chiratidzo chokuremekedza, chinhu chacho chinongova chiyeuchidzo. Naizvozvo, nekutenga pano, iwe zvakare unowana a nhoroondo uye kuzvipira kwekufananidzira.
Mishonga yemadzitateguru nemiti
Mishonga yechivanhu inobata nzvimbo yakatanhamara pamusika nenzvimbo dzawo. Mabouquets emishonga, infusions, mafuta ekuzora, uye mabhamu anotengeswa pamwe chete nezvinhu zvekupa. Inonyanya kuzivikanwa munyaya iyi mushonga weKallawaya, waiitwa kare nevarapi vanofamba kubva kunzvimbo dzakakwirira, vanozivikanwa neruzivo rwavo rwemiti uye mishonga yepanyama. Mipiro yavo yakave yakabatanidzwa mumararamiro eguta: nokuda kwechirwere chemudumbu, kutonhora, kurara zviri nani ... pane nguva dzose chirimwa kana musanganiswa unokurudzirwa neruzivo uye kutarisirwa. Iri nzira yekuti kungwarira kunovakwa nemasikirwo.
Shizha rekoka, hongu, riri kwese kwese. Haisi kungoshandiswa pakuuka chete, asi chikamu chezvakasiyana-siyana zvekugadzirira, kubva pakucheneswa kusvika kumatafura emitambo. Mukushandiswa kwechinyakare, mashizha anotsengwa panguva yezvimwe zvinopihwa, izvo kune vakawanda zvinobatsira kutarisa chikumbiro uye kuchengetedza kurovedza muviri pakakwirira. Izvi zvakajairwa zvinopesana nekuita dhimoni mune mamwe mamiriro: pano, coca is a chinoyera chirimwa chine mabasa akawanda.
Makakatanwa, kutonga uye kuchengetedza
Kufanana nenzvimbo ipi neipi yekugara, misika haina kusunungurwa kubva mukukakavadzana. Mumabasa akasiyana-siyana, zviremera zvakanyevera nezvokuvapo kwemarudzi akadzivirirwa kana kuti mhuka dzomusango dzine bhizimisi rinorambidzwa—zviremwaremwa, madzvinyu, makava, kana kuti matoyi, nezvimwe. Aya maitiro anopokana nekuchengetedza kwezvakatipoteredza uye hutano hweveruzhinji, uye zvakakonzera kuwedzera kuongororwa uye zvirango. Vatengesi pachavo vanobvuma kuti vamwe havaremekedzi mitemo, uye saka vanosimbisa kuti vazhinji vanoteerera uye kuti sullus yavanopa haisi. musabva pakubayira namaune.
Dambudziko, pakupedzisira, nderekuenzanisa kuchengetedzwa kwetsika dzemadzitateguru nekuchengetedzwa kwezvakasiyana-siyana zvipenyu uye kutevedzera mutemo. Kune rimwe divi, nhaka isingabatike inopa guta kuzivikanwa kwayo inodzivirirwa; kune rumwe rutivi, kutengeswa kwemhuka kunorwiswa uye kubata zvine mutoro kwezvinhu zvetsika kunokurudzirwa. Chiri panjodzi pakati penzvimbo iyi inoramba iripo yemusika senzvimbo yepamutemo yemaitiro eAndean uye sechikwezva chevashanyi vanoda kunzwisisa-pasina kurwara kana kurerutsa-zvinorehwa nemusika nhasi. chitendero chakakurumbira muLa Paz.
Mazano ekushanya neruremekedzo
Mutemo wekutanga wakapfava: bvunza usati watora mafoto vanhu, zvitoro, kana tsika. Muzviitiko zvakawanda, vatengesi vanopa masevhisi emweya, uye kamera inogona kusagadzikana kana kutyora zvakavanzika zvavo. Saizvozvo, kana iwe uchifarira kuverenga kana tafura, tora mukana wekutaura uye kunzwisisa chikonzero chechinhu chimwe nechimwe. Kuda kuziva, kana kuchiperekedzwa nekuzvininipisa, kunovhura masuo; pane zvinopesana, kukurumidza uye "smart mushanyi" toni inoomesa zvinhu. Muchidimbu: zvinonzwisiswa kuti iyi inzvimbo yakasarudzika, asi chinhu chine musoro kuita kufamba nekuchenjerera uye neruremekedzo.
Panyaya yechengetedzo, haisi nzvimbo ine njodzi zvakanyanya, kunyangwe iri pfungwa yakanaka kudzivirira kuratidza zvinhu zvinodhura, tarisa nharembozha yako uye chikwama, uye usasiye mabhegi akavhurika. Iyo cobblestone pasi uye migwagwa yakatsetseka inokurudzira shangu dzakagadzikana, uye zvakakodzera kufamba zvakanyatsonaka pakati pezviteshi kuti urege kubata zvinhu zvakapfava. Kana iwe uri mumamiriro ekutenga, funga kuti chinhu chacho chichava chiyeuchidzo here kana kuti iwe uchafungidzira kushanda kwayo kwetsika; usazvirerutsa kana kuzvipa 'nekuda kwekuti,' kunyanya kana iri zvinhu zvekupa. Izvi zvishoma zvekufunga zvinobatsira kuchengetedza pfungwa yenzvimbo. dzivisa kushandiswa kwedecontextualized.
Pfungwa inoshanda: mangwanani anowanzo kuve akabatikana pakuona chiitiko uye kuzorora; pakati pemasikati, kufamba kunononoka zvishoma. Kana iwe uchida kusanganisa kushanya kwako nezvimwe zviitiko, iyo Coca Museum iri padyo, uye migwagwa yakatenderedza izere nezvitoro zvemhizha nemakofi. Iwe unozokwanisa kusvika ipapo nyore netekisi kana netsoka kubva pakati peguta; kana uchigara pedyo neSagárnaga, iri pakona chaipo. Uye kana ukaenda pakupera kwevhiki, unogona kuwana zvimwe tsika yakabatidzwa pedyo nedanga, mufananidzo une simba (uye basa rekutarisa pasina kupinda munzira).
Mitambo yemwaka uye hupenyu hwezuva nezuva
Muna Nyamavhuvhu, karenda inowedzera: mari yekubhadhara 'kudyisa' Pachamama yakawanda, ine matafura makuru akabatwa pamwe chete neshinda kana tambo, yakagadzirwa neyatiris uye yakapiswa. Chiitiko chinosanganisa utsi, zvihwitsi, mavara, uye kugunun'una kweminamato nezvishuwo. Panewo nguva dzegore apo chaallas inoitwa-somuenzaniso, yakabatana nekugadzwa-uye wajt'as (zvipo zvinopiswa sechiratidzo chekutenda). Kupfuura aya mazuva akakosha, hupenyu hwemazuva ese hunosanganisira kuropafadza dzimba, kukumbira dziviriro yekufamba, kana kutsvaga zviratidzo zvekuita sarudzo. Ndosaka musika uchirarama: nekuti inopa masevhisi chaiwo kunharaunda yayo, uye kwete kungodaro kuda kuziva kwemuenzi.
Pakati penhaurirano dzinowanzonzwika ndedziya dzeavo vari kutsvaka 'kupinda' nhanho itsva: kutanga bhizimisi, kuvandudza basa ravo, kuzarura rudo, kuyananiswa noutano hwavo. Chimwe nechimwe chinodiwa chinoshandurirwa mumisanganiswa chaiyo, uye hunyengeri huri mukugadzirisa tafura yakakodzera. Masiwiti ane maumbirwo ekufananidzira, mashizha ekoka, mhodzi, michero, maruva, uye resin inopfuta nekunhuhwirira kwakanaka zvinoiswa; kana kurongeka kwakakura, sulu inowedzerwa. Apo moto uri kubvira, yatiri inoona, uye dzimwe nguva mutsara wakapfava wakakwana: 'Zvakafamba zvakanaka, zvakanaka.' Ikoko, pakati pemazimbe uye kupisa, ndiko kupi kutenda kunova ruzivo.
Unyanzvi uye urban syncretism
Chimwe chezvido zvemusika kugarisana kwezvinhu zvekunamata uye zvehunyanzvi. Chinhambwe chinhambwe kubva pachitoro chiri kutengesa makenduru kukwezva vadikani, panogona kunge paine chitoro chinotengesa micheka yakanaka kana zviridzwa zvemimhanzi. Vanonamata nevanomhura vanogarisana zvisina musono: uchaona michinjikwa yeAndean nezviumbwa zvemapuranga zveMhandara Maria padivi pehuayruro pendants uye matoyi echinyakare; uyewo macharango nenyere zvinobudisa ruzha rweguta racho. Iyi syncretism yemudhorobha inoratidza kuti tsika yeLa Paz haisi chidimbu chemuseum, asi a rarama musanganiswa unozvivandudza pachako pamakona ose.
Migwagwa izere nezvakawanda: maziso anokweverwa kumapepa anopenya emishonga nesipo, nzeve dzichitarisa mazita anokwezva (seanozivikanwa 7 machos Perfume), uye mhino dzichijairira musanganiswa unosimbirira werusenzi neresin. Pakati pekukurudzira uku, ipfungwa yakanaka kuzvitora nyore uye, kana zvichidikanwa, tora zororo mune imwe cafe iri padyo. Kushanya hakusi nhangemutange; iko kufamba kutarisa, kunhuwa, kuteerera, uye, pamusoro pezvose, kunzwisisa kuti kuseri kwebhodhoro rega kana kenduru kune nyaya refu uye kuchinjana hukama naPachamama.
Musika weVaroyi muLa Paz unoratidza, sedzimwe nzvimbo shoma, nhaurirano pakati peguta neAndean worldview. Pano, vanhu vanotenga amulets uye cologne, hongu, asi ivo zvakare vanokumbira zano, mwenje mipiro, uye vanoti jallalla nekutenda kusingade kuratidzwa. Iri panguva imwechete inokwezva vashanyi uye nzvimbo yakakurumbira, inotariswa nekukakavadzana uye muenzaniso wekupikisa tsika. Avo vanodzungaira mazviri neruremekedzo uye kuda kuziva vanotora zvinopfuura bhegi chete: vanobvisa intuition iyo, mumigwagwa iyi, upenyu nengano zvinoramba zvichikurukurirana zuva nezuva