Zvipfeko zvechinyakare zvevanhu veko veGuatemala zvinopfuura chipfeko chakapfava; ndiko kuratidzwa mhenyu kwenhaka yemadzitateguru inopfuudza nhoroondo, kuzivikanwa uye kukosha kwevatakuri vayo chizvarwa nechizvarwa. Izvo hazvina basa kana iwe ukashanyira musha mudiki munzvimbo dzakakwirira kana kufamba uchitenderera misika yemaguta makuru: mavara, maumbirwo uye ruzivo rwe Micheka yeMayan inobata maziso uye kumutsa kuda kuziva kwechero munhu ari kutsvaga kunzwisisa mweya weGuatemala.
Zvipfeko zvechinyakare zveGuatemala, kunyanya izvo zvenharaunda dzeMayan, mufananidzo wezvinoreva tsika, zvitendero, uye hunyanzvi hwekugadzira. Kwemazana emakore, hunyanzvi hwekuruka nekushongedza hahuna kungove chimiro chekufukidzira, asiwo kuratidzwa kwakadzama kwekuva, kuremekedza madzitateguru, uye kusimba kwetsika mukutarisana nemamiriro ezvinhu akaipa. Avo vanopfeka hembe dzechivanhu vanozviita nokudada uye mutoro, sezvo shinda imwe neimwe inotakura nyaya yakasiyana.
Kusiyana kwezvipfeko zvedunhu muGuatemala
MuGuatemala, mune zvitayera zvinopfuura 800 zvakasiyana-siyana zvembatya dzechinyakare, imwe neimwe yakabatana zvikuru nenzanga yekwakabva. Izvi zvakasiyana-siyana zvinoshamisa zvinoratidza kupfuma kwetsika munyika ine mitauro inopfuura 20 netsika dzakawanda dzomunzvimbomo. Vakadzi veMayan, kunyanya, vanochengetedza nekuzvipira kukuru kushandiswa kwehuipil, sash, uye corte, vachipa maitiro avo kuvanasikana vavo nevazukuru. Munzanga dzakawanda, kuri nyore kusiyanisa mavambo omunhu nokucherekedza mavara, zviratidzo, uye unyanzvi hunoshandiswa muzvipfeko zvavo.
Munguva yehutongi hwevapambepfumi, veSpain vakagadzira misiyano yedunhu mumapfekero nechinangwa chekudzora uye kuunganidza mutero pakati pevagari veko. Uku kuisirwa kwenhoroondo kwakabatanidza hunhu hwezvipfeko zvechinyakare, zvichiita kuti nharaunda yega yega ive yakasarudzika nanhasi nekuda kwemavara ayo uye motifs.
Nguo huru: kubva kuhuipil kusvika kune corte uye sash
Huipil ndicho chipfeko chinonyanya kukosha chepfeko yechikadzi yeMayan. Iri ibhurauzi rakarukwa nemaoko pachirukwa chekumashure, chakashongedzwa nerunako rwerunako runoda mwedzi yebasa. Iyo faja, kana bhandi, inobata corte, siketi refu yakagadzirwa nemucheka wakarukwa nekuzvipira kwakafanana uye hupfumi hweruzivo. Pamusoro pezvo, zvishongedzo zvakaita semabhande emumusoro, toyocals, uye tzutes zvinowedzera hunyoro uye zvazvinoreva kuzvipfeko, zvingave zvekushongedza kana zvezvinangwa, sekutakura mwana.
Mune mamwe matunhu, varume vachiri kuwanikwa vakapfeka tirauzi nehembe dzakarukwa, kunyangwe zvipfeko zvechivanhu zvechivanhu zvisingawanikwe nhasi. Huchokwadi hwechipfeko chega chega chiri mukubatanidzwa kwehunyanzvi, motifs, uye mavara akasiyana nenzvimbo yega yega.
Maitiro emadzitateguru mukugadzira micheka
Unyanzvi hwekuruka kweMayan hunobva pakushandiswa kwechirukwa chekumashure, chishandiso chemadzitateguru chakapfuudzwa kubva kuna amai kuenda kuvanasikana kwemazana emakore. Chirukwa ichi chinoita kuti varuki vagare pasi, vakabata mumwe mugumo muchiuno mavo uye mumwe pamuti kana kuti danda, nokudaro zvichiita kuti vakwanise kuruka magadzirirwo akaoma kunzwisisa nenhamba.
Shinda dzacho, dzagara dzichigadzirwa nedonje, dzinodhayiwa nedhayi dzinobva mumaruva, midzi, makwati, uye zvirimwa. Nekuda kweiyi artisanal pigmentation, machira eGuatemalan anomira pachena kune avo ruvara vibrancy uye kusimba kuburikidza nenguva. Kuruka kunoshanda uye kunogona kutora mwedzi yakawanda, zvichiita kuti chipfeko chimwe nechimwe chive chakasiyana uye chichikosheswa zvikuru.
Iwo mavara muzvipfeko zveMayan uye zvazvinoreva
Rudzi rwemicheka yeMayan haruna kurongeka; imwe neimwe hue ine chaiyo chaiyo yetsika uye yekufananidzira kushamwaridzana. Aya ndiwo mavara akajairika uye dudziro dzadzo dzakapararira:
- Bhuruu: Inofananidzira denga nemvura, zvinhu zvakakosha zveMayan worldview.
- Tsvuku: Yakabatana nemambakwedza uye simba, inomiririra simba rehupenyu uye kutenderera kwezuva nezuva.
- Dema: Inomutsa husiku, chakavanzika cherufu uye maitiro ekuvandudzwa, ichisimbisa pfungwa yekushandurwa.
- Chena: Batanidza nemhepo uye zvemweya, izvo zvisingabatike uye zvinoera.
- Yero: Inomiririra hupfumi hwezuva uye chibage, chikafu chepakati muhupenyu hweMayan uye zvitendero.
- Green: Ndiko kutaura kwezvisikwa, kubereka uye hupenyu panyika.
Izvo zvakasiyana-siyana zvemavara aya muzvipfeko zvinopa nharaunda imwe neimwe chiziviso chisingaoneki chinooneka. Maitiro ekudhaya, mitsetse, uye kusimba kweruvara zvinogona kuratidza kwakabva hembe.
Symbolism mune textile motifs uye magadzirirwo
Iwo motifs anoshandiswa muGuatemala machira ane chirevo chakadzama uye anotaurirana ruzivo nezvemaonero epasirese, nhoroondo, uye kukosha kwetsika yeMayan. Pakati pezvakanyanya kugadzirwa ndezvi:
- Zigzags: Vanofananidzira makomo nemakomo, pamwe chete nenyoka ine minhenga Gucumatz. Mukati mechivanhu, vanobatanidzwawo nemararamiro ehupenyu nematambudziko anosangana nevanhu.
- Madhaimani: Kududzirwa kwemadhaimani kunosiyana-siyana, asi anowanzomiririra mapoinzi mana kana kuti chadenga, midziyo yetsika, uye kunyange muruki pachake.
- Nyeredzi: Huzivi hwenyeredzi hwaive hwakakosha kukufunga kweMayan, nekudaro kugara kuripo kwenhamba dzakaita nyeredzi mumachira.
- Shiri ine misoro miviri (kot kana kab-awil): Makondo ane misoro miviri anogona kufananidzira hunyambiri hwechakanaka nechakaipa, chekare neramangwana, denga nenyika.
- Quetzal: Shiri yenyika uye chiratidzo chekunaka uye chiedza, inowanzoonekwa mune zvekushongedza motifs.
- Maruva nezvinomera: Inobatanidzwa nekubereka, hupenyu hutsva, kutenderera kwevanhu (kuberekwa, kukura, kubereka uye kufa), uye muti wehupenyu kana ceiba, chiratidzo chepasi rose chiripo mumicheka yakawanda.
- Njiva: Inofungidzirwa vapi vehupenyu uye kudya kunovaka muviri, kwakabatana nekuwanda.
- Zvimiro zvevanhu vakabata maoko: Vanotaura nezvekubatana kwemhuri nenzanga, uye kunyange kumuchato.
- Teki: Chiratidzo chetsika dzemuchato, apo huturu hunopihwa vabereki vemwenga hunotora kukosha kwekufananidzira, nemachira anoratidza kuti mupenyu here kana kuti akafa.
- Dzimwe mhuka: Kufanana neshiri dzinonzi hummingbird, majongwe, jaguar, dzose dzine dudziro dzakati dzakasiyana pakati pemataundi.
Chimwe nechimwe chezvigadziridzo izvi chinoratidza maonero enyika yeMayan, kubatana nenharaunda, uye kukosha kwezvisikwa uye zvemweya muupenyu hwezuva nezuva.
Iko kukosha kwetsika uye kusimba kwezvipfeko zvechinyakare
Kupfeka zvipfeko zvechinyakare zveGuatemala zvinopfuura nyaya yeaesthetics: chiitiko chekusimbisa tsika uye kusimba kwenhoroondo. Munguva dzerima sehondo yevagari vemo, zvipfeko zvechinyakare zvaibvumira nharaunda kuti zvizivikanwe uye zvaishandiswa zvese kuvadzora uye kuvatambudza, migumisiro yakaipa kune vagari vemoNekudaro, kunyangwe nekunetsekana, kutapurirana kwehunyanzvi hwemachira hakuna kungopona, asiwo kwakawedzera kusimba sechiratidzo chekusimba.
Vanhu vane mukurumbira vakaita saRigoberta Menchú vaunza zvipfeko zvavo zvedunhu kumatanho epasi rose, vachiratidza kudada nhaka yavo yeMayan kupasirese. Kupfeka nguwo idzi chiziviso chekuzivikanwa uye ndechemunhu, mutero kumadzitateguru uye nenyika pachayo.
Shanduko dzemazuva ano nekuchengetedzwa kwetsika
Kudyidzana kwenyika uye kuchinjana kwetsika kwakaunza shanduko mukushandiswa kwezvipfeko zvedunhu. Nhasi, zvakajairika kuona vakadzi vakapfeka huipiles nemagadzirirwo uye mavara kubva munharaunda dzakasiyana-siyana, mune izvo zvinozivikanwa se "pan-Mayan style." Musanganiswa uyu unoratidza kutsvaga kubatana pakati pevanhu veko, pamwe nekugadzirisa tsika dzemazuva ano.
Artisanal matekiniki anoramba achipfuudzwa kubva kuchizvarwa kuenda kune chimwe chizvarwa, uye kukosha kweMayan machira kunozivikanwa mumisika yemuno neyekunze. Kuwana mucheka weGuatemalan wakagadzirwa nemaoko kuve uine basa reunyanzvi rinofukidza mazana emakore enhoroondo uye zvekunamata.
Mienzaniso yedunhu: hupfumi hwenharaunda yega yega
Dunhu rega rega reGuatemala rinopa hunhu hwayo hwakasarudzika kune zvipfeko zvechinyakare. Semuenzaniso, Cobán huipil inoratidzirwa nekushandisa kwayo donje isingaremi, matani machena, uye mifananidzo yakamendwa iyo, kunyange isingaoneki, ine chiratidzo chikuru. Mutsipa unowanzo kuve wakashongedzwa nemaruva ane mavara akajeka, nepo zvimiro zveshiri nemhuka zvakanyanya mumucheka mukuru.
MuSan Antonio Aguas Calientes, rimwe taundi rine mukurumbira, zvakajairika kuwana huipiles dzakarukwa nemabhurokadhi akanyanya kunaka, uko magadzirirwo anodzokororwa pamativi ese ejira. Toni dzebhuruu negirinhi zvakajairika, uye zvimiro zveshiri nemaruva zvinotora nzvimbo yepakati muiyo iconography.
Zvipfeko uye zvemweya: zvakanyanya kupfuura chitarisiko
Chipfeko chechinyakare hachina kuganhurirwa kune yaro yemagariro kana aesthetic basa. Kunharaunda zhinji, kupfeka nenzira yemadzitateguru kunoreva kukudza vamwari, zvisikwa uye kutenderera kwehupenyu. Mune mhemberero dzakawanda uye tsika, kukosha kwekupfeka kunowedzerwa uye kunotora chikamu chitsvene, kusimbisazve kubatana pakati pezvino uye zvekare.
Kupfeka zvipfeko zvechinyakare zvakare inzira yekudzidzisa zvizvarwa zvitsva nezvekukosha kwemidzi yavo, kudada kunokurudzira uye pfungwa yekuve munhu. Sezvo Isabel, murongi wezvedzidzo pane imwe sangano renzvimbo, akamboti, "Pandinopfeka sutu yangu, ndinonzwa ndakadzika mumidzi yangu."
Remangwana reMayan zvipfeko: matambudziko nemikana
Kwemazana emakore, zvipfeko zvechinyakare zvevanhu veGuatemalan zvakakwanisa kuzvigadzirisa pasina kurasikirwa nekuona kwazvakabva. Takatarisana nekutyisidzirwa kwetsika homogenization, zvipfeko zvemudunhu zvinoramba zviri chiratidzo chemavara akasiyana uye simba revanhu veMayan. Matanho ekunyora, kuchengetedza, uye kusimudzira pfuma yemachira iyi ari kuwanda, kubva kumasangano emuno neekunze, kuve nechokwadi chekuti zvakavanzika zvemucheka uye zvinorehwa nezviratidzo zvinogara kuzvizvarwa zvinotevera.
Vashanyi vazhinji kuGuatemala vanoshamiswa nekuona kudzika kweshinda yega yega uye embroidery yega yega. Kupfuura runako rwavo, chipfeko chega chega ikokero yekunzwisisa nhaka yekare yevanhu vavo uye kudanwa kukoshesa basa uye hunyanzvi hweavo vanochengeta tsika iyi iri mhenyu.
Chipfeko chechinyakare cheGuatemala chiratidziro kurarama kubva pakuzivikanwa, kuramba uye kunaka kwenharaunda dzavoChipfeko chega chega, chimiro chega chega, uye mavara ese akapindirwa mumachira eMayan anotaurira nyaya yekuchinjika, huchenjeri, uye kuremekedza kwakadzama kune zvakasikwa nemadzitateguru. Kuchengetedza uye kushanduka kwetsika iyi hakungopfumisa tsika yeGuatemala, asi inotiyeuchidzawo nezvekukosha kwe chengetedza midzi yedu kuti tinzwisise zviri nani kuti tiri vanaani uye kuti tinoda kuenda kupi.