Kuverenga nguva yeMet Gala inotevera kuri kuenderera mberi, uye pamwe chete neizvi, kunouya ruzivo rwekutanga rwehusiku hwakagadzirirwa kudzokorodza zvakare karenda yemafashoni epasi rose. Metropolitan Museum of Art muNew York neCostume Institute yayo vakaburitsa pachena izvi. Kodhi yekupfeka: "Fashoni Unyanzvi"...slogani inovimbisa kushandura masitepisi eMet kuita chimwe chinhu chakafanana ne gallery yemifananidzo yehupenyu.
Kure nekungova sirogani chete, kusarudzwa kwedingindira kunosimbisa kuzvipira kwemuseum kuisa mafashoni padanho rakafanana nedzimwe dzidzo dzekugadzira. Gala, iyo inoshanda se chiitiko cherudo chekuunganidza mari yeCostume InstituteSaka inova nzira yakakwana yekudzoreredza muviri wakapfekwa sechinhu chinoyevedza, chenhoroondo uye chezvematongerwo enyika, kwete kungofanana netsika dzinopfuura.
"Fashoni Unyanzvi": mutemo wekupfeka wakagadzirwa segwaro remanyorerwo
Chirevo chekuti "Fashoni Hunyanzvi" hachingogumiri pakukoka vanhu vakakurumbira kuti vapfeke semifananidzo yakakurumbira kana zvifananidzo zvinozivikanwa. Sangano iri rinokurudzira vanopinda kuti vanoratidza hukama hwavo nefashoni sechimiro cheunyanzvi chakaratidzwaKutamba nemifananidzo, mavhoriyamu, zvinyorwa zvenhoroondo, uye kuyedza zvinhu kuti uchinje chitarisiko chega chega kuita basa reunyanzvi pacharo. Pfungwa iyi inobatana ne tsika nemaitiro ehunyanzvi izvo zviri kutsanangura patsva mamiriro ekugadzira.
Seri kwemitemo yekupfeka kune pfungwa imwecheteyo inotsigira kuratidzwa kutsva kwemuseum, "Costume Art," yakarongwa naAndrew Bolton nechikwata chake. Sezvakataurwa nemutariri pachake, chinangwa ndeche kutarisa pa "hukuru hwemuviri wakapfekwa" muunganidzwa weMet, kubatanidza mifananidzo, zvifananidzo nezvinhu zvenguva dzakasiyana nembatya kubva muzvinyorwa zveCostume Institute.
Mukuita, izvi zvinoreva kuti pakapeti dzvuku taigona kuona zvese kubva pamadhirezi emifananidzo ane huwandu hwakanyanya kusvika kumadhirezi akafuridzirwa nemafambiro chaiwo eunyanzvi, nezvimwewo. chitarisiko chepfungwa chinoshandisa muviri sejira kurondedzera nyaya dzemunhu, zvirevo zvematongerwo enyika, kana kuongorora hunhu hwake. Chinhu chikuru hachizongove chekukwezva kutariswa chete, asi kuchengetedza hurukuro; hukama uhwu pakati pemafashoni neunyanzvi hunoyeuchidza magwaro anotaura nezve Nhoroondo nemanzwiro muunyanzvi.
Chirevo ichi chinovhurawo mukana wekuti kudzoreredzwa kwezvinhu zvakachengetwa uye mafashoni ekareIzvi zvave zvichiwedzera mukurumbira pamutambo uyu kwemakore akati wandei ikozvino. Vaenzi vane chikonzero chakanaka chekuongorora zvinyorwa zvedzimba dzekare uye kuwanazve magadzirirwo anozivikanwa ayo, nekuda kwekukosha kwawo kwekufananidzira, ikozvino anoshanda sezvinhu zvemuseum. Uyezve, akawanda emareferensi aya anosimbisa maitiro azvino.
Makambani ane hukama hwakasimba neunyanzvi, akadai saSchiaparelli, Alexander McQueen, Valentino, naYves Saint Laurent pachake, vane mavambo akanaka mukupenya pausiku apo hurukuro pakati penhandare yendege nemiziyamu inotarisirwa kuve pachena kupfuura kare. Hazvingashamisi kuona vanhu vachigutsurirana nemifananidzo yakaita se... Nguo yaSaint Laurent yeMondrian kana kududzirwazve kwemifananidzo yekare yemazuva ano.
"Unyanzvi hweZvipfeko": kuratidzwa kunoita kuti husiku huve nechinangwa
Sezvinowanzoitika, dingindira reMet Gala rakabatana zvakananga nekuratidzwa kwegore negore kwechirimo kweCostume Institute. Gore rino, kuratidzwa uku kune musoro wekuti "Costume Art" uye inoratidzwa seimwe yemabasa akakosha zvikuru mudhipatimendi maererano nehuwandu hwezvinhu., nezvinhu zvinoda kusvika mazana mana zvinosanganisira mabasa ehunyanzvi nezvipfeko.
Nzira yacho inotenderera Mabasa 200 kubva muunganidzwa weMet—mifananidzo, zvifananidzo, zviumbwa zvevhu, nezvimwe zvinhu—pamwe chete nembatya dzekare nedzemazuva ano dzinosvika 200Kuratidzwa uku kunobva muunganidzwa wesangano iri wezvinhu zvinodarika 33.000. Chinangwa ndechekuona hunyanzvi kuburikidza nemaonero efashoni uye kuratidza kuti muviri wakapfekwa wave uripo munhoroondo yese yekuratidzwa kwemifananidzo; kutaura zvazviri, kuratidzwa kwacho kwakabatana. mifananidzo nezvinhu nehembe.
Kuratidzwa uku kwakarongwa muzvikamu gumi nezviviri zvakatsaurirwa kumarudzi akasiyana emuviri: kubva kune yekare kusvika kune vasina kupfeka, kubva kune vane pamuviri kusvika pakukwegura, kusanganisira vakaremara nemiviri midiki. Bolton akasimbisa kuti Mhando zhinji dzemiviri iyi dzagara dzichingoonekwa sedzisina kunaka kana kuti dzagara dzichionekwa sedzisina kunaka. munyaya yeunyanzvi nemafashoni, uye kuti chinangwa ndechekupokana nemaonero iwayo asina kuganhurirwa. Kutaura zvazviri, kuratidzwa uku kunoreva zvinyorwa pamusoro kusiyana-siyana uye kumiririrwa mune zveunyanzvi.
Mamwe mapfekero anovimbisa kuva akajeka zvikuru: semuenzaniso, mavhasi ekuGreece yekare anoratidzwa pamwe chete nenguo dzinotevedzera kana kutsanangura patsva mifananiso inoonekwa paari, kana kusanganiswa kwechifananidzo chaEdgar Degas chinonzi "Pregnant Woman" nedhirezi raGeorgina Godley ra1986, rine mavhoriyamu akarukwa uye kuverenga pachena kwevakadzi.
Kuti kusimbiswe pfungwa yekuti muenzi ariwo chikamu chenyaya iyoyo, mannequins acharatidzwa misoro yesimbi yakakweshwa ine girazi rekupedzisa, basa rakagadzirwa nemuimbi Samar Hejazi, kuitira kuti veruzhinji vagone kuzviona vachiratidzwa muchiratidziro uye vazvizive ivo pachavo—kana kuti kwete—mumitumbi inomiririrwa.
"Costume Art" ichavewo kuratidzwa kwekutanga kwe maGalleries matsva eCondé NastNzvimbo inodarika 1,000 square metres iri pedyo neGreat Hall yemuseum, yakagadzirwa kubva kuchitoro chekare cheMet. Nzvimbo itsva iyi ichaita kuti mafashoni awedzere simba remuviri uye rekufananidzira mumuseum, kune vese vanopinda mhemberero dzemitambo uye veruzhinji; kushandurwa kwenzvimbo iyi kunosanganisira zvinyorwa pamusoro pe kushandiswa kwenhau netsika.
Husiku hwenyeredzi: Beyoncé ndiye anotungamira mutambo uyu
Panyaya yekuti "ndiani ari ani," mutambo uyu unoisa zvakare Beyoncé ari pakati pevanhu vakawandaMuimbi uyu, uyo asina kumbotsika pamatanho eMet kubvira muna 2016, anodzoka panguva ino semumwe wevanotungamira mimhanzi mikuru, pamwe chete naNicole Kidman, mutambi wetenesi Venus Williams pamwe nemupepeti wekusingaperi weVogue, Anna Wintour.
Sarudzo yeboka iri revatambi vatanhatu inosanganisa mimhanzi, mafirimu, mitambo, uye simba rekunyora mumufananidzo mumwe chete, zvichisimbisa pfungwa yekuti Met Gala inoshanda se nzvimbo yekusangana pakati penzvimbo dzakasiyana dzetsika dzemazuva anoKuna Beyoncé, uyo akatotamba nefashoni sechirevo cheunyanzvi kakawanda, kodhi yekuti "Fashoni hunyanzvi" inomiririra mukana wakajeka wekutora nyaya iyoyo nhanho diki; nyaya yake inobatana nezvidimbu pamusoro fashoni nemafirimu.
El Komiti yekuronga mutambo uyu inotungamirwa nemugadziri Anthony Vaccarello, director wekugadzira weSaint Laurent, naZoë Kravitz.mutambi uye mugadziri wemafirimu. Akamupoteredza, komiti yakakura uye yakasiyana-siyana yakaumbwa, kusanganisira mazita akadai saSabrina Carpenter, Doja Cat, Gwendoline Christie, Alex Consani, Misty Copeland, Elizabeth Debicki, Lena Dunham, Paloma Elsesser, LISA, Chloe Malle, Sam Smith, Teyana Taylor, Lauren Wasser, Anna Weyant, A'ja Wilson, Yseult, Adut Akech, Angela Bassett, Aimee Mullins, Sinéad Burke, Rebecca Hall, Tschabalala Self, Amy Sherald, naChase Sui Wonders.
Kusanganiswa uku kwevaimbi, vatambi vemitambo, vatambi, vamiririri, vaimbi vemifananidzo, nevanhu vakaremara kunoratidza kuzvipira kwesangano iri ku kuratidza maonero akafara ekuti ndiani ari pakati pemafashoni nhasiKuvapo kwaChloe Malle, mukuru mutsva wezvenhau paVogue muUnited States, kuchatsanangurwawo sekuchinja kwechikamu muhurongwa hwekunyora nyaya dzakapoteredza chiitiko ichi.
Segore rega rega, Rondedzero yakazara yevaenzi inochengetwa yakavanzika kusvika pazuva remutambo wacho.Kuvanzika uku, pamwe chete nekugona kududzira kwekodhi ye "Fashion is Art", kunowedzera fungidziro pasocial media uye mune zvenhau zvine hunyanzvi, kunyanya muEurope, uko mutambo uyu unoteverwa sekunge waive mutambo mukuru wekupedzisira wemitambo.
Kubva kumuviri wakarongwa kusvika kumuviri chaiwo: mafashoni, hunyanzvi uye zvematongerwo enyika
Kupfuura kutaurwa kwenhau, chirongwa chegore rino chekuchengetedza chinotarisa munzvimbo inonyanya kufarirwa neveruzhinji vekuEurope: ongororo yakakosha yepfungwa ye "muviri wakanaka" muunyanzvi nemafashoniKuratidzwa uku uye mitemo yekupfeka zvinobatana zvakananga nenhaurirano dzemazuva ano pamusoro pekusiyana kwemiviri, murume kana mukadzi, zera, uye kuremara.
Bolton akataura kuti nyaya huru yekuona yave neropafadzo kwemazana emakore muviri chaiwo chaiwo: mudiki, unojairika, mutete, uye kazhinji muchenaNekubatanidza miviri yekukwegura, ine pamuviri, yakakora, kana yakaremara mukuratidzira, chirongwa ichi chinoedza kuvhura mipata mukumiririrwa ikoko kwehushingi uye kuunza hurukuro iyoyo kukapeti tsvuku zvakare.
Mukugadzirira kwemutambo uyu, izvi zvinoreva kuti vagadziri vane mukana wekuti... kutsvaga nzira itsva dzekupfeka miviri yagara isingaonekwepasina kuwira muzviratidzo chete. Mafashoni, muchirevo ichi, anozviratidza senzvimbo iyo matekiniki nehunyanzvi zvinogona kuperekedza zvinodiwa munharaunda; kunyangwe kududzirwazve kwetsika senge unyanzvi hwekimono Vanopa ruzivo rwekuti ungapfeka sei vanhu vakasiyana-siyana.
Kune indasitiri yemafashoni yekuEurope, iyo yakajaira kuona dzimba dzayo huru dzichifamba-famba muMet—kubva kuDior kusvika kuValentino, kusanganisira makambani ekuSpain anowanzo pfekedza nyeredzi dzepasi rose—chinyorwa chegore rino chinovhura ndima inonakidza: Maitiro ekushandura tsika yeHaute Couture nekugadzira zvinhu zveumbozha kuita zvidimbu zvinoshandawo setsananguro yakakosha nezvemufananidzo wemuviri. Hurukuro iyi pakati pemafashoni nesimba inoreva hurukuro pamusoro humbozha uye mumiriri.
Saizvozvowo, kodhi inoti "Fashoni Unyanzvi" inogonawo kuverengwa sechikumbiro chekududzira patsva zviratidzo zvetsika nehunyanzvi zviri pedyo neveruzhinji vekuEuropeKubva panguva yeRenaissance yeItaly kusvika kumavanda emuzana remakore rechi20, kusanganisira mareferensi anozivikanwa semafirimu, mimhanzi, uye makomiki, chinhu chikuru hachisi chekungoziva zviratidzo zvacho, asi kuongorora kuti dhizaini yacho inounza sei chimwe chinhu chitsva kunhaka iyoyo.
Iyo MET Gala senzvimbo yepasi rose yekuona zvinhu
Met Gala yakazvisimbisa mumakumi emakore achangopfuura sechiitiko chechokwadi rabhoritari yepfungwa dzinoonekwa dzinozopinda muunganidzwa, makambani ekudhinda uye makapeti matsvuku pasi reseMutemo wekupfeka wegore rega rega unoshanda semusangano wevagadziri, vanogadzira mafashoni, uye makambani efashoni, uye gore ra2026 harizove rakasiyana.
Gore rino, kutarisisa mafashoni seunyanzvi kuri kuisa mutambo uyu munzvimbo yakaorera yekuyedza: Kuisa zvinhu zvinotakurika, mbatya dzinofungidzirwa semifananidzo yakapfava, magadzirirwo emachira akanyanya, uye kushanda pamwe chete nevanyori vemazuva anoZvishandiso zvisina kujairika kana kuti zvakadzokororwazve zvinopikisa pfungwa yekare yeumbozha zvinogonawo kuoneka.
Kune vazhinji vakakurumbira vekuEurope vanopinda chiitiko ichi nguva dzose, dambudziko riri pakuwana kuenzanisa pakati njodzi yekufunga uye runako Zvinotarisirwa nevateereri vake. Nguo inoyevedza haina kukwana; nyaya yakajeka inodiwa, zvakanaka, inoenderana nedingindira rechiratidziro uye nerwendo rwemunhu akaipfeka.
Mumamiriro ezvinhu aya, basa revagadziri vemafashoni richave rakafanana nerekuchengetedza. Vachafanira Sarudza, ronga, uye ronga chitarisiko chinoenderana nenhoroondo yeunyanzvi nebasa revagadziri.Chimwe chinhu icho, kana chikaitwa zvakanaka, chinogona kuratidza shanduko huru mumabasa evanobatanidzwa; ndosaka vazhinji vachitendeukira ku mazano ehunyanzvi hwekugadzira.
Saka, Met Gala iri kuuya iri kuratidzika kuva husiku apo kuratidzwa kwemifananidzo kuchafambirana neshoko rakadzama. Pakati pekupenya kwekapeti tsvuku, maitiro ekungwarira ekuchengetedza, uye kumanikidzwa kwenhau dzepasi rose, chiitiko ichi chinomutsa zvakare mubvunzo unobata pfungwa mukati nekunze kwenyika yemafashoni: Zvipfeko zvingaonekwa semhando yeunyanzvi kusvika papi, pasina musiyano?.
